What’s Your Longest Surf Streak?
We’d like to challenge you.
Ed note: the following is the 634th installment of our new weekly email chain called the Stab Fwd. If you’re into it, subscribe here.
I could not surf today.
I don’t keep tabs on my streaks. I don’t even view them as streaks, I simply consider the days I can’t surf as burdens. If I had to guess, I’d say today was my first burden in two months.
That might read as fortunate — and it is, without a doubt — but it should also be noted that I configure my existence around surfing. I have seen very few cases in which an excess of responsibilities is the culprit of a stolen surf session. I know hyper-busy people who still find plenty of time in the water. I know way more hyper-bored people who find plenty of excuses.
I think it mostly comes down effective time management. You have to prioritize it. And surfing has always been worth prioritizing to me.
That’s selfish, I’ve read. But I’ve yet to find pieces of literature that claim it’s selfish to maintain a good level of health — physical, mental or otherwise. Any surfer knows how powerful it is in that regard. Would it sound more noble if we were going to the gym or taking meditation classes?
It should also be noted that I have incredibly low standards. Some waves are better than others, without a doubt, but I’ve found that a new Ferrari and a mangled 1992 Civic will both get you to where you need to go. And so I’ve built arguments for surfing bad waves.
I have a new way of framing that: Surf when you can.
Think about this:
You’re near the ocean. You’re alive. Your body works. You have a board. You have a suit, if necessary. There are waves you can ride. You’ve found or made the time to ride them.
If these stars have aligned for you, is there really an argument against surfing?
Crowds can be annoying. Cold water can be uncomfortable. You can be tired. Etc.
But if you care enough to read this, you know that all of those things — and every other problem, real or illusory — have a tendency to vanish when you synchronize your movements to the mood of the ocean.
Surf when you can.
I hope this didn’t take away from any of your water time.
Schmoo seemed like the type of person who was adored by everyone he encountered. A lot of people are missing him right now, and a lot of people are feeling grateful for the time they were able to spend with him. Cliche as it may be, talk to your loved ones and enjoy your time here.
Gonna go ahead and throw the must-watch label on this. Know how some edits make you want to surf? This makes you want to surf waves of consequence. Most modern surf edits feature 90% ripping and 10% heavy-ish stuff to prove they can do it. This doesn’t completely flip that ratio, but it gets close. Jacob Willcox appears to be that rare combination of fearless and highly technical.
I recently bought an old DHD for 100 € from a woman who was selling it on the Potuguese version of Craigslist. While I was driving to meet her, she texted me saying that she might have to go to the hospital due to severe kidney pain. She decided stick it out for the sale, though. The board works well and I hope Joana is feeling better.
That story has little do with this article, which features an interview with Britt Merrick and is worth a read.
No. But you can watch our intern knock over a beer, try to pick up some ladies and go for a surf while wearing them. Would you like to watch our intern knock over a beer, try to pick up some ladies and go for a surf while wearing them?
Did he ever leave? This edit features Mr. Reynolds and friends surfing what is being described as “shit waves.” As a passionate shit wave surfer, I take offense to that. You need at least 15 more miles per hour of onshore wind to truly qualify as a shit wave. Anyway, they are ripping and it’s certainly more relatable than the Jacob Willcox edit.
Gudauskas, not Reynolds. And if you are Dane Gudauskas then, first, hi Dane. And second — I think your name did not appear on Danny Johnson’s hand in this edit because it was written on his other hand, which was being held near to his heart.
If you are not Dane Gudauskas and you are confused, which you should be, watch this re-heat of the ender section in Pentacoastal for clarity.
One last thing:
There is absolutely no satisfaction in breaking a leash. None.
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