Youth Wasted on the Young: Does Experience In Surfing Outclass Electricity?

A 51-year-old carries the title for the best wave at Maverick’s. A 46-year-old punts higher than all of the CT. A 49-year-old is considered a ‘threat’ in competition.

Strange, isn’t it? Some of today’s most incendiary surfers are well over the age of 40.

With a sport as physically taxing as surfing, it’s bizarre to think Pete Mel, Nathan Fletcher, and Kelly Slater are still leading their respective niches. No mid-life crisis Corvettes, no wobbly knees, and no signs of pumping the brakes.

Through chatting with the above names, we’ll attempt to peel back the layers and see exactly how these three middle-life men are making it happen.

I’m sure by now you’ve seen the video of Pete Mel’s lovely chip-in from downtown at Mav’s. You’d expect a cheeky backdoor attempt from a young gun like Nathan Florence or Kai Lenny—someone with a splash of juvenile ignorance and arrogance. But Pete’s as knowledgeable and level-headed as they come.

Within the past few months, Nathan Fletcher has recorded 100 hours above the lip—about halfway to the required 250 for his commercial pilot’s license. When we put him on a boat trip to judge 20-year-old acrobats, the old man snuck off with the award for highest air. Then he came home and launched the biggest near-make ever at Pipeline.

Kelly, meanwhile, is still Kelly. Twenty-nine years after his first World Title, Slater’s still one of the worst guys to draw in a heat. He placed eighth in the world in last full season and started the 2021 Tour with a third. Did we mention he turned 49 this month? Forty. Nine.

So, how are these geezers running the show? 

Experience
The most apparent asset in an older surfer’s portfolio is experience. It’s all about developing wave IQ—knowing where to be and when. 

Peter Mel snagged his first big wave at Sunset when he was 14 years old, and this time spent in deep water has provided a hefty ROI, especially at Mav’s. “I think in big waves, the experience is a major part of it,” Pete explained. “Triangulating swells, understanding where you are in these massive lineups—it’s super important. I’ve watched that wave for many, many years. I’ve seen all its different moods. All of that knowledge helps you get into that spot.”

Before we move on, I have to tell you something: Kelly left me on read. Couldn’t get a nibble out of the GOAT, not one “Bahhhh” from the bald beauty. Unfortunate? Yes, but with an extensive history of rejection, I’ve learned how to pivot. I cut Peter Mel’s and Nathan Fletcher’s interview questions with baking soda and sprinkled in some of their opinions on Mr. Slater. 

“Kelly surfs Pipeline better than anyone, so he knows which waves are going to do certain things,” Pete mentioned. “And he’s still got the physical ability to do it. We all lose a little bit of a step, but that experience kind of equalizes it in a way, so you can keep doing it.”

Surfing is all about balance. A bit of yin, and a Home-Depot-sized bucket of yang. Age comes with experience, and experience identifies what is in front of you. Or if you’re Nathan Fletcher, below you.

Nathan’s aerial mastery is nothing short of astonishing. Recent events tell us that even at 46, he hasn’t yet reached his apex. Nathan thanks ‘air awareness’ for his persistent elevation. Air awareness can be defined as “your tactics while in the air,” Fletcher claimed. “You know where your foot’s at, and you know where you’re landing. If you get enough time doing it, your muscle memory starts to understand it.”

Muscle memory is the result of repetition. Nathan’s vertically-productive past has afforded him the ability to soar with his eyes closed. No wave pool reps either—just pure trial and error in Mother Nature’s salty spittoon.

Injury prevention
Air Awareness is also the reason why Nathan believes his body is in one piece. Surfing is dangerous—spine adjusting slams, sharp reefs, human pylons. It’s not a wise hobby for old bones. For a surfer who likes to punt, Fletcher’s physical traumas seem pretty minor.

Nate praises his knowledge of hitting ramps for his lack of injury—the result of extensive hours spent skateboarding both through his childhood and to this day. While his massive punt at Pipe last month looked glorious from the beach, Fletcher’s account was pretty basic. “The air I did the other day didn’t even feel big because of the way I hit it. If there was a landing, I was on it.” 

In this same vein, Nathan believes that height is a lesser factor than awareness when it comes to injury. “You can break your leg on a two-footer but land just fine on a 10-foot air. It depends on where you’re at over your board and what the water’s doing.”

While the air guys focus on understanding their equipment, the big wave fellas are thanking theirs for their physical well-being. Inflatable vests, turbo’d Ski-Doos, and top-notch breathing courses are regular parts of the modern mountain-tamer’s existence. 

“Things have changed, right?” Mel said. “I think surfers are taking better care of themselves, rounding the corner of realizing their destructive behaviors. Plus, the equipment’s good, and the wetsuits are warm—and you know, the ocean is the fountain of youth.” 

When it comes to physique, Kelly Slater is an anomaly. A lean blend of power and flexibility. This could be due to his primarily plant-based diet, or perhaps the mothership forgot to pick him up on the way back to Mars. 

“Kelly Slater is known for his rails,” Fletcher said. “Everyone’s body favors different maneuvers. My body favors airs, while his body prefers a frontside arc or a World Title.”

But beyond the physical side of things, one wonders how Kelly, Nate, and Pete have retained the desire to perform. 

Mental health 
The rest of Slater’s flock retired years ago. I can’t imagine he and Griffin Colapinto have much to talk about. While often overlooked, the emotional aspect of any professional sport is excruciating. Kelly is undeniably the most successful competitive surfer. However, one wonders what kind of toll it’s taken on him personally. 

To reach the top (let alone hang in the upper altitudes for 25 years), you have to tune out the noise completely—this means sacrificing relationships, time with family, etc. You’re like a horse with blinders, until the world title is secured. Then you look around, realize there are only strangers surrounding you, and the trophy becomes meaningless. 

Or maybe it is a glorious feeling; I don’t know. My notepad for this section has only questions, no answers.

What is universally meaningful is time spent with your kids. Pete Mel points to his son John as the most significant driving factor in his career. 

“I think a lot of it is John,” Pet said. “I want to be there to support him and be there for his safekeeping. He does the same for me now, too. It’s like this kind of thing where John and I are just having a good time doing it, supporting each other.” 

On the other hand, Nathan Fletcher claims fatherhood has given him a reason to slow down. 

“As a father, I spend more time looking at smaller waves and the shoreline,” he said. “I’m more concerned with being there for my kids than I am with putting on a show. The show I used to put on, you’re eventually going to die.” Alternatively, you could dial it back a touch and throw the biggest airs of your career.

So, what have we learned?
Years of experience, physical resilience, and organized emotions have allowed surfers to excel into their golden years (hell, even Tom Curren just released an edit stockpiled with drone footage). Despite some wear on the paint, there’s plenty of tread on the tires, and the engine runs just fine. Nathan, Pete, and Kelly—all relevant 20 years ago, even more relevant today. 

You know those middle-aged men in the Cialis commercials; Fishing, kayaking, or flying a kite? Yeah, these are not the same guys.