Stab Magazine | Upsides Of Climate Change: The Waves Are Getting Bigger

Now Live: Best Surfing I've Ever Seen With Nate Lawrence

365 Views

Upsides Of Climate Change: The Waves Are Getting Bigger

More wind equals more waves and maybe less complaining from self-centred surfers. 

news // May 5, 2019
Words by stab
Reading Time: 2 minutes

We ain’t here to harp on about climate change. I’m just here to transfer a little knowledge about a positive side-effect of the single biggest issue facing humanity and the rest of the world: the waves are getting bigger!

A year ago the Southern Hemisphere copped it’s biggest ever unbreaking wave (also the last time I used a Point Break image in an article), and now some more evidence has come to light proving that old weathered walking handbag at your local wrong. No the waves weren’t better back in ’89, you just weren’t a jaded old fossil back then, in fact, the waves now are bigger than ever!

A joint study between the University of Melbourne and University of Hasanuddin (Indonesia) has concluded wave heights have grown an average of 5 percent since 1985.

“Global satellite data are analyzed to determine trends in oceanic wind speed and wave height over the 33-year period 1985 to 2018. The analysis uses an extensive database obtained from a total of 31 satellite missions comprising three independent instruments—altimeters, radiometers and scatterometers. The analysis shows small increases in mean wind speed and wave height over this period, with stronger increases in extreme conditions (90th percentiles).” Reads the paper’s abstract.

The experiment used over 4 million data points and found that wave heights, on average, have climbed around a foot (30-odd centimetres). As Swellnet pointed out, these averages are even higher in the most extreme regions; in some regions, such as parts of the Southern Ocean and Antarctica, wave heights rose an average of 10 percent. The data was also crosschecked against 80 buoys, which confirmed wave height increases of this magnitude.

Imagine another foot on this. Christo! Photo: Fred Pompermayer

As expected, these wave heights are as a result of increasing winds. On average in the Southern Ocean, wind speeds since 1985 have jumped around 8-percent. 

At this stage the author’s, Young and Ribal, have not laid out their predictions for future trends. They are however currently reanalysing those 4-million odd data points to refine their climatic models and lay down some predictions for the future.

Increasing winds and wave heights might be catastrophic for coastal erosion and seaside homes, but hey, at least the waves are getting a little sizier!

p.s. I wish these stats were translating to Australia’s East Coast right now, maybe my car been broken down has something to do with it, but I haven’t touched a board in weeks!

p.p.s sorry if this article is a little brief, I lost a much longer (and maybe less shit) version of this article an hour ago and bashed this out as a supplement. 

Comments

Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.

Already a member? Sign In

Want to join? Sign Up

Advertisement

Most Recent

The Best Surfing I’ve Ever Seen: Nate Lawrence

Kolohe, Cola Bros, Luke Davis, Crane, and "the most magical 3 weeks ever had in…

Apr 25, 2024

Snapper To Return To The CT In 2025(!) + WSL Announces Season Wildcards

Next year is looking up. Here's what we know...

Apr 25, 2024

Kelly Slater Will Surf In Tahiti And Fiji CT Events — And He’s Bringing A Secret Weapon With Him

What's it like to coach an 11x champ? We asked Glenn "Micro" Hall.

Apr 24, 2024

Watch: A Masterclass In Belated Drops At The Teepee Capital Of The World

And the rest of the O’Neill team sticks the landing in Hawaii.

Apr 24, 2024

How Sophie McCulloch Broke Her Back At The Box Three Days After Being Cut From The CT

The untold brutal side story of finals day in WA.

Apr 24, 2024

The Cut Wasn’t The Surf Fans’ Idea — But It Might Be Our Fault

Psychoanalyzing surfing’s highly sadistic audience (us!).

Apr 23, 2024

How Surfers (And Skiers/Snowboarders) Could Be Using Buoys Better

Snow in Japan = waves at Pipe = snow in Utah, @PowderBuoy told us.

Apr 22, 2024

How Did Sydney’s Hottest Landscape Architect Stack So Many Clips Less Than 10Kms From Centrepoint Tower? 

Fraser Dovell is a man of culture, taste and jabbing North Av lefts in the…

Apr 22, 2024

Full Frame: The Other Side Of Nazaré

The death of a wave, and the birth of an entire genre of surf. 

Apr 21, 2024

Jack Robbo Double Beats Double John At Margies, Gabriela Bryan Dodges Dolphins For Maiden Win

The cut is finished - WA finals recap.

Apr 21, 2024

Watch: A Leisurely Day With Fingal’s-Most-Wanted Foamball Wrangler

Lungi Slabb and filmmaker Beren Hall offer insight into the exact specs which bring GoPro…

Apr 20, 2024

The Stab Interview: Chippa Wilson

On childhood bullies, surfing bigger waves, the making of 'Zipper', and what's on the horizon…

Apr 19, 2024

Medina Cooked at WSL Judges’ BBQ, George Pittar Flares En Route To Finals Day

Four heats, a nine point ride, and some brotherly tears.

Apr 19, 2024

Ferrari Boyz: Harry Bryant (Redux)

A Land Cruiser, a shitting collie, a tank of petrol, and a wild Haz in…

Apr 18, 2024

Surprise! Margies Ran At Southside Today

No rest for the wicked - day 5 WA recap.

Apr 18, 2024

A Dispatch From The Best Run Of Swell Northwest Australia May Ever See

Three weeks of pumping surf, two decades ago, that changed this writer's life.

Apr 17, 2024

Nichols, Silva + Spencer Cut, Robinson Lives To Fight Another Day

Waiting: a polite term for slowly losing your mind - here's what happened in WA…

Apr 17, 2024

The Pupo Brothers Will Face Off At Margs, And Only The Winner Can Stay On Tour

Let's look at every match-up that will seal a CT surfer's fate.

Apr 16, 2024
Advertisement