Andrew Doheny, sandbar greens, Indonesia
And, so, if you were to tour the Sumatran coastline, with attention paid to its northern flank, you might find a long stretch of sandbars, somewhat of a rarity in Indonesia. An outer reef breaks it up a lil out the back and in come what the photographer describes as “the best beacbhreak you’ve ever […]
And, so, if you were to tour the Sumatran coastline, with attention paid to its northern flank, you might find a long stretch of sandbars, somewhat of a rarity in Indonesia. An outer reef breaks it up a lil out the back and in come what the photographer describes as “the best beacbhreak you’ve ever surfed, fucking all time.” This session was a couple of feet overhead and the wind had suddenly switch-bladed offshore. The surfers rode for six hours and Mr Tom Carey, photographer, swam for six. “Those waves go sideways at you, there’s air sections, tube sections and carve sections. It’s not an easy wave to surf. There’s no back on ‘em and it’s pretty heavy.” As for securing a photograph like this, Mr Carey describes a technique where the shooter is there at the take-off and stretches his arm into the barrel, finger stomping the shutter button as the surfer drops in and pumps into the tube. “It sure makes for a good photo,” he says. It sure do.
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