Watch: This Is One Of The 10 Best Waves Ever Ridden On A Surfboard
Nathan Florence courtesy of Ireland.
“I do believe you can have a left of your life and a right of your life. I feel like what I got in this session was probably the right of my life.
Avid sci-fi and fantasy reader Nathan Florence is a big fan of The Lord of the Rings. The acclaimed film trilogy was filmed in New Zealand, but Nathan has excelled in making magic and slaying monsters in another country of rolling green hills. Remember that Mullaghmore tunnel last year?
Fresh off a Teahupo’o stint that fell somewhat short of expectations, Nathan ditched the gents towing six-footers for one of Ireland’s renowned slabs. On a mint 7’, Nathan found what he claims to be the right of his life. He couldn’t have been any deeper if he were a dwarf in the mines of Moria. The combination of knifing the drop, hurdling the foam ball, and blasting into the channel was so profound that his only comparison was that Teahupo’o jaw-dropper seven years ago that arguably kickstarted his heavy water career… which is fascinating considering this is a man who could see Pipeline (and Backdoor) from his childhood living room.
“There’s a certain feeling you get when you kick out,” Nathan said of those one-in-a-million waves. “There’s an overwhelming feeling of gratitude, appreciation and disbelief at how you got so lucky as to be living the life you’re living there at that very moment that that wave came through. And you were in the spot and everything, every little piece of timing, every microsecond, you made the right on the wave decision to be as deep as you possibly could and still make it.”
We have no qualms stating that this is (easily) one of the 10 best waves ever ridden on a surfboard.
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