“It’s Almost Like A Library Card To Go Back In Time”

More, we want more.

For years surfers have stormed board factories, demanding more. Make the edges sharper, add a fin box or four, and wrap everything in carbon fiber. Fuck it, why not. 

The truth, which lies beneath a mountain of flex techs and doo-hickeys, is that we don’t need all that jazz. We obsess over the pearl whiteness of a new board when an old chunk of foam with a rudder is all it takes to scratch our primal itch.

Darshan Gooch exemplifies this perfectly in ‘Here Now: Past & Present,’ a short film by Kyle Buthman. His decades-old Marc Andreini single fin works wonders, as quality surfing comes from the wizard, not the wand. However, it makes sense for Gooch to go back and order a freshie. Many adjustments can be made in 40 years, and based off the water spewing out from the tail (visible at 7:55, someone please explain) Andreini definitely has a trick or two up his sleeve.

The template will be the same, though. Always. Watch here.