Craig Anderson, Deadmans, Mooloolaba, Queensland

From Stab issue 65: There’s something about a rarely shot wave that sets those bundles of faggots afire. This is a lefthand reef on the Sunshine Coast that is so protected by any form of southerly swell that it ain’t until a cyclone beats down its door that it starts to break. And not very long ago, a cyclone did indeed beat down the door and Matt O’Brien, who grew up surfing here, was there to record the event on his Canon digital camera. “I love brown water more than anything and nice light and I got ‘em both at my favourite beach,” says Matt. “Anytime I get a shot run from home I’m proud of it ‘cause I never saw it in surf mags when I was growing up. It’s my opportunity to put it on the map, in regards to photos.” As for Craig, “he doesn’t catch a lot of waves. He’d sit out the back for 20 minutes, wait for the big sets, and let all the smaller waves go through. It was frustrating for me because I wanted him to take off on everything. It’s a dream to have someone at Craig’s level there. I’ve never got Chip or Coleborn there.” As it happened, Coleborn had left two days before the swell and was reportedly rattled as hell to see the images. Also starring on this day were Thom Pringle, also from the area, and South African Brendon Gibbens, who was sticker-free during the session and therefore left the day without a digital imprint. “Shallow as it is, even though he was fucking ripping, I wasn’t really shooting him. I had no idea,” says Matt.

Y’can buy Stab issue 64 digitally, now, here.