Makua Rothman, Sunset Beach, Hawaii

Stab has been a gigantic fan of Mr Makua Rothman ever since we first met the bright and preternaturally talented 10-year-old on the North Shore. Two years before, he’d paddled out at Waimea Bay (as an eight-year-old) and taken a two-wave hold down. Makua is the eldest son of the North Shore’s most important public figure, Mr Eddie Rothman, and grew up, and still lives, in a house overlooking Sunset Beach.

Between learning the ancient Hawaiian language (such is his love of the land) and playing a ukelele exceptionally well, he also surfs Hawaii’s waves with intimate knowledge and braves. Yesterday, the first swell of the Hawaiian season hit, and hit with more punch than was expected. A NNW swell with the buoys clocking 11 feet at 15 seconds.

“Sunset was the spot holding the swell and the inside bowl was doing its thing,” says photog Spencer Suitt, who shot this. “Plenty of beach erosion as you can tell by the brown water in some of these photos. It’s also looking like more of this all week.” And, just as Makua was there to meet the first swell, you can bet he’ll be immersed in everything that hits for the rest of winter.