Stab Magazine | How To: Celebrate International Surfing Day (A Day Late)
171 Views

How To: Celebrate International Surfing Day (A Day Late)

Getting in the water would be a start, but that’s not the most important aspect of ‘surfing’. 

style // Jun 21, 2020
Words by Stab
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Happy International Surfing Day, aka the third Saturday of June! Well, I guess that was yesterday, nevertheless, let’s reflect on the aquatic hobby we all love and have no doubt ‘wasted’ many moneys and hours doing. 

ISD started back in 2005 after Surfing Life and the Surfrider foundation were jealous of all those other ‘days’ out there and thought we were deserving of our own special day… they clearly weren’t aware that World Surf Day already existed.

Anyway, we’re here to celebrate this glorious day, and I figured there’s no better individual than I, a mediocre bodyboarder turned very average surfer, who writes (editor interjection: poorly) for this publication on the weekends, to publish a piece on the most important parts of surfing. The Gestalt principle that ‘the whole is more than the sum of its parts’ may be true for surfing, but that doesn’t mean we can’t appreciate the finer details. 

While getting in the water and catching a few waves is the main goal of our favoured pursuit, it is by no means the activity we spend the majority of our time doing while pursuing our surfing dreams. So, I suggest you take this time to reflect on all the loveable activities we too often overlook.  

Sure beats having to actually paddle out and surf the joint.

Sitting in the car ‘checking it’

It’s a well-known fact that as you age the ratio between checking it and surfing gets exponentially larger. 

When you’re a grom and your parents drop you off, you’ll surf anything. Well, anything that isn’t big enough to kill you, or at least convince your parents it’s too big for you. You imagine once you get your provisional license you’ll be surfing more than ever, but what you fail to realise is you’ll actually just be checking it significantly more.

Rather than driving to a beach and surfing it, you’ll be clocking clicks up and down the coast for two hours before you return to a slightly more blown-out version of the first spot.

Then, once you progress into jaded-adulthood you get over all that spot checking and just resort to talking about it all in the carpark: the good ol’ days when the banks were good, you were good, and you actually surfed. 

A mind-surf, unlike the real thing, is never disappointing and in my mind should be embraced significantly more. 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/9EuZ0S4eGlM

Getting really fucking angry

There’s a number of catalysts for fury in surfing: a crowded lineup, a hoax of a surf report/forecast, poor ability, getting dropped in on, receiving backlash for dropping in. The list is truly endless. These instances however should be cherished rather than feared. 

Some hemp-wearing, doobie-smoking dick might tell you surfing is all about the soul. But for some of us, it’s a great way to unleash pent up rage.

If you’re a good surfer, you can emancipate your frustrations with a well-timed whack or end-section air, but if you’re shit, then you can just unleash it via your lungs or perhaps even direct it at some other underserving individual. 

https://player.vimeo.com/video/306300625

Riding the wrong board

Most of us are on the wrong equipment, either for our ability or the conditions. So, to exacerbate and thus celebrate this fine tradition, I suggest riding something grossly inappropriate. Let’s say…a foamie in clean, four-foot surf (a hobby usually reserved for Byron Bay residing knob-heads and people that are really good) or a step-up thruster on the worst day your local has seen in months (usually reserved for every overseas learning surfer in Sydney).

I don’t suggest this as a form of masochism. I see it as a learning activity. When you push the barriers of ‘appropriate equipment’ this far you’ll soon realise how horrible it is, you might however also realise that if you head back in the other direction you’ll enjoy your surfing much more. 

Lying

To your partner, parents, friends, and even yourself.

Surfing is built on lies and don’t you ever forget that.

Whether you’re lying about the price of your new board to your partner, lying about why you’re late to family lunch, why you can’t afford the rent this month, or most pertinently, lying to yourself about your own ability. 

Whatever it is, let rip a big old lie this weekend and remember to never ever watch footage of yourself surfing. 

Quitting

It’s a right of passage for all surfers to eventually throw in the towel and live their former lives vicariously through their kids or through an internet comment section. Besides, there’s nothing more altruistic in surfing than giving it all up to let those who remain surf in a less crowded world.

Comments

Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.

Already a member? Sign In

Want to join? Sign Up

Advertisement

Most Recent

Be Yourself and Have Fun

An Interview with Jaleesa Vincent on her new film, 'Macaroni in the Pot'

Oct 6, 2022

Can Proper Surf Instruction Mitigate Chaos In The Water?

Here's why you need certification to earn the title "surf instructor" in 80 different countries.

Oct 6, 2022

24:30

No Contest Off Tour Heads To Thumping Fiji

Inside: Julian describes the mongo Cloudbreak milieu and AG does a Kava cooking course.

Oct 6, 2022

How Surfers Get Paid, Episode 3 

Nike has entered the chat.

Oct 5, 2022

“I Always Had A Mega Chip On My Shoulder”

UnSound Surf's Mike Nelson and Dave Juan have been the backbone of New York surfing…

Oct 5, 2022

Unlocked: Leonardo Fioravanti’s Stab Edit Of The Year Entry 

Watch 'The Cut' now, and baffle at the quality of both the waves and the…

Oct 4, 2022

The Pro Surfer Who Filmed A War Documentary In Ukraine

Damien Castera's got a story to tell.

Oct 4, 2022

Honest Review(s): O’Neill Hyperfreak Fire

Pushing the Limits of Wetsuit Tech for Men & Women

Oct 3, 2022

How Much Would You Pay For A Session Like This?

A cost-per-vision breakdown of Kian Martin and Tai Buddha's latest strike mission.

Oct 2, 2022

Ongoing Dialogue: Jack Freestone And Album’s Matt Parker On How They Get Sparks To Fly

"Nowadays, a standard thruster feels pretty alt to me." -Jack

Oct 2, 2022

Davo’s Death Strikes At Surfing’s Core

The underground icon battled demons til the end. His untimely demise is yet another cautionary…

Oct 1, 2022

Macaroni in the Pot

Jaleesa Vincent and 200 Lefts in the Mentawais

Oct 1, 2022

Introducing A Brand New Travel Series (With A Familiar Name)

Watch the first New York episode of Stab & Red Bull's No Contest Off Tour.

Sep 30, 2022

Leandro Dora: Pro Surfer, Businessman, Punk Rock Festival Organizer, Spiritual Mentor, And World Title Winning Surf Coach 

Meet one of the most beloved and effective individuals in the athlete's zone.

Sep 29, 2022

12:31

You’re Gonna Click On A New Oscar Langburne Video

Style that can't be denied.

Sep 29, 2022

Long Read: An Angel At My Table

From Stab Issue 15, October 2006: Chris Davidson has one more shot at the big…

Sep 28, 2022

5:07

Watch: Kalani David’s Last Dance

A final surf part from the Hawaiian surf/skate prodigy.

Sep 28, 2022

Taylor Steele Won’t Let Surf Filmmaking Die Without a Fight

Movies shown, filmmaking advice, punk rock at the 2022 Solento Surf Festival.

Sep 28, 2022
Advertisement