Maverick’s Is A Left Now, And Lucas Chumbo Is Its Master

Lucas Chumbo might be the most talented big wave surfer in the world. 

The Brazilian doesn’t have the same level of experience as veterans like Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker, Greg Long, and Billy Kemper, but he’s got just as much courage and, we’d argue, more natural creativity and talent on a surfboard. 

Take Chumbo’s recent approach to Maverick’s as Exhibit A. 

During this week’s double-header swell event, Chumbo took it upon himself to sit deeper than most at Mav’s – historically considered a predominant right – so that he could swing under the ledge and point his board northward upon entry. 

The left at Maverick’s is short and chaotic, with the rider having to knife the drop and pull up under the cascading lip in order to survive. Because eight-foot-plus boards are more or less required at Half Moon Bay, this toe-curling drop is made all the all the more difficult. 

In the video above, we see Chumbo leaning hard on the inside rail and not only making the wave, but stalling so that he can get deeper in the pit. This display of athleticism and courage proves not only that Lucas is at another level when it comes to big wave surfing, but also that people have been going the wrong way at Maverick’s all this time.

They should have been pulling into the slab left like Lucas (and Nic Von Rupp)!