Jamie O’Brien Talks Pipeline And Mortality, Prior To His Recent Near-Death Incident
On the latest Occ-Cast ep, which took place back in the Hawaiian winter, Jamie O’Brien discusses the existential concerns of surfing his favorite wave.
Do you believe in fate?
To me, it’s a ridiculous concept.
How could one’s life be pre-ordained by some greater power when even most religions accept the concept of free will? Humans make decisions, and those decisions have consequences, which then birth another thousand consequences, thus determining our life paths.
But every once in a while we encounter a coincidence so robust that it makes us question this very logic. Like the fact that Mark Twain was both born and killed on separate Halley’s Comet appearances (which happen every 75 years), and that your horoscope was right about you being extra gullible this month (so watch out for scams!).
Recently James Duncan O’Brien, of Who Is JOB fame, had what he described as a near-death experience at his home break of Banzai Pipeline.
“I don’t remember anything,” Jamie said to his GoPro, seconds after emerging from a brutal wipeout. “Was it a left or a right?”
Whether by fin or reef, Jamie’s head received a sizable slice on this occasion, which had apparently knocked him unconscious while underwater. Luckily he was wearing his flotation wetty.
But here’s the weird part – prior to the incident, Jamie went on the Occ-Cast with Mark Occhilupo, where he discussed, with great sincerity, his mortal fears of surfing Pipeline. Jamie mentioned the near-death of his friend Kalani Chapman and countless others like it.
“It happens here, like… a lot,” Jamie explained.
It’s sobering stuff, and we recommend you give it a watch above.
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