“It Was 6-Foot — And Then A 25-Foot Set Came Out Of Nowhere”

Despite its many beguiling qualities of magic and meditation, surfing produces a handful of viscerally negative feelings (duh.)

FOMO from being violently ill during the “legendary” swell of August 2014, falling just under the Mid Year cutline, and creasing a brand new board on your second surf — all terrible notions.

There may be none more primal, however, than the tummy-softening vision of scratching over a large lump, only to see an even bigger double-up behind it.

Timothé Bisso offers his recollection of one such bewildering instance, from his most recent expedition, “That left in the clip is a crazy swell magnet, it would be 4-foot on the right and 15-foot on the left. There was one session where it was 6-foot, not super big, and then an actual 25-footer came out of nowhere and absolutely smoked all of us,” he laughs. “I bailed, broke my leash, and came in straight away. I wanted to get a video on my phone to explain what happened but, as soon as I got on the beach it went back to being 6-foot again.”

Though we won’t say where this was filmed, we know you’re all capable of doing your own research. Just make sure not to end up five hours from the nearest port in a kayak on a Google Earth whim.

“I surfed everyday alone, it was spooky. You don’t really want to think about the fish too much, just catch as many waves as you can.”

Click above for Tim’s two-week successful strike to a desolate windswept isle.