A Twelve Minute Seminar On Dodging Dry Rocks And Swimming Shark Riddled Lineups - Stab Mag

Live Now... How Surfers Get Paid: The High Price Of Authenticity — Craig Anderson's Knee Doesn't Bend

344 Views
As Mason Ho recently said, "It's only dry... right in front of the wave."

A Twelve Minute Seminar On Dodging Dry Rocks And Swimming Shark Riddled Lineups

“I’ve gone to hospital because of that wave a couple times,” says ‘Pressed’ star Connor Lee.

cinema // Aug 24, 2023
Words by Holden Trnka
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Dangling your little piggies in remote Australian brine is a courageous venture.

 With at least 11 fatal attacks in the past two years and over 1000 in recorded history, Oz may well be the shark attack capital of the world.

Combine this with the fact that its 25,000 km coastline is highly concentrated with rocky slabs and heaving reefs, and you’ve created quite the gauntlet for the average cone hunter.

Often overlooked, however, is the equal degree of risk our humble water photogs subject themselves to.

Courtesy of Connor Lee’s new covert clip, we’re offered some unique vistas into the glory and damage wrought on both surfer and filmer.

“Yeah, Lucas Soarsy is my best mate, he’s got no fear,” Connor tells me, regarding his filmer. “He’s a crazy swimmer, he bought a camera a year ago to film, and he’s been swimming at all the gnarliest waves. He just jumps in and starts swimming kilometers.”

“I figured I can’t surf the waves, so I might as well film them,” Lucas humbly tells me. “It’s so fun to swim at those waves, I love it. You definitely get rolled sometimes though. I just hate when I miss clips, because they come so fast, so I just hold the camera on him for as long as I can. That particular wave with the dry rock is pretty tricky, as soon as it breaks there’s no clear water underneath, it’s just you and reef. I just hold on as tight as I can, I don’t want to break $10,000 worth of equipment, so I’m pretty much just bear hugging my camera and getting the shit beat out of me,” he laughs.

“You can get fucked up out there,” Connor explains. “I’ve gone to hospital because of that wave a couple times, one time I hit my chin and got fully knocked out. It was a small one on a really big day and I fell pumping through the pit. It just bottomed out and I fell and faceplanted into the rock. I should’ve gotten way more hurt, but a friend grabbed me on a ski. As he picked me up I came to and didn’t know what happened.”

An unfamiliar angle, if only because few filmers are keen for a six-foot slab on the dome.

As for sharks, neither of them seem to be too stressed. 

“I don’t really get scared about sharks,” Lucas laughs. “That one session with the rock in the back people were showing us photos of huge sharks nearby, and it was just us two in the water. The waves were too good though, we fully forgot about sharks until we came back in. Afterwards we realized how hectic it was. It just slips my mind.”

Click above to watch two underground Australians connect (and get smoked) in a handful of situations most people wouldn’t be halfway interested in.

Comments

Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.

Already a member? Sign In

Want to join? Sign Up

Advertisement

Most Recent

Three Weeks On: The Aftermath of the LA Wildfires

An ode to a city that won't stay down.

Jan 28, 2025

How Surfers Get Paid: Season 2, Episode 6

The high price of authenticity — Craig Anderson’s knee doesn’t bend.

Jan 27, 2025

Dave Wassel’s Pipeline Secrets Every Surf Investor Should Know

How to make money on betonline.ag.

Jan 27, 2025

Should The 2025 World Title Have An Asterisk?

Your 2025 Lexus Pipe Pro preview.

Jan 25, 2025

You’ve Never Seen A Surf Movie Like This

First reef Pipeline meets Adult Swim meets Quentin Tarantino in Kalani Rivero's 'KRTV'

Jan 25, 2025

Trend Alert: WSL Bleeds 27 World Titles In Just 12 Months

...And that's not counting Gabe or Filipe. Is it time to worry?

Jan 25, 2025

Dion Agius Releases His Greatest Hits, Olympic Medallist Gets A Swoosh Sticker + CT Rookie Ignites Bidding War

“People fully thought I was cooked,” laughs Former’s hybrid teamrider / creative.

Jan 24, 2025

Stab Highway East Coast (USA) Presented By Monster Energy, Episode 1

16 surfers, 12 days, 9 states, 1,500 miles. Fuhgettaboutit.

Jan 24, 2025

The Unfortunate Reality Of Starting The Season At Pipe

This has (almost) nothing to do with the WSL Finals.

Jan 22, 2025

Alan Cleland Jr. Is Officially A 2025 CT Rookie

…and here’s all of the wildcard updates for the start of the WSL season. 

Jan 21, 2025

Not Just John: Stephanie Gilmore Confirms She Will ALSO Skip The 2025 CT

But, with seven years and AUD$3.5 million left on her Rip Curl contract, Steph's not…

Jan 21, 2025

JJF Will Officially Be Taking The 2025 Season Off

He will, however, be back in 2026.

Jan 21, 2025

Like A Hot Katana Through Tofu: Red Bull No Contest Takes A Mouth-Watering Cross Section Of Japanese Surf Culture

Kanoa Igarashi’s Michelin star guide to eating + surfing in the land of cherry blossoms.

Jan 21, 2025

Ryan Callinan Inks Equity Deal With Rivvia Projects + Quik Freesurfer Starts Fin Company

Julian Wilson talks banding with the Steel City screwfoot + other industry news.

Jan 21, 2025

“Layne Beachley, 53, Playing Mind Games With 18-YO Quey Warriors Behind The Rock? That Shit Was Iconic”

Sebastian 'Seabass' Zietz and Jed 'Smivvy' Smith relive the thrilling final of the World Cup…

Jan 21, 2025

If Caity Simmers Started A Cult Would You Join?

Watch her latest film ‘Blouse’ to feel religion.

Jan 20, 2025

What Does It Actually Take To Become A World Title Winning Shaper?

Jon Pyzel, Matt Biolos, and Darren Handley illustrate the foundation and the future of building…

Jan 20, 2025

What Really Happened At Stab High Japan presented by Monster Energy?

A 45-minute mini-doc about one wild weekend in Shizunami.

Jan 20, 2025
Advertisement