Stab Magazine | Hawaii, You've Got Our Attention

Live Now — Episode 3 Of Surf100 Challenge Series Presented By Pacifico

245 Views

Hawaii, You’ve Got Our Attention

Letter From The Editor: Europe’s feather-dusted, Pe’ahi was all-time, and Hawaii’s got her hooks in us early this season…

news // Nov 2, 2017
Words by Stab
Reading Time: 5 minutes

Hello, loves. I’ve missed you. 

After a red-eye out of Lisbon through JFK last night, I caught a 5AM direct to LAX, and I’d be lying if I said it felt good to be back over US soil. Or that I enjoyed the sun’s ripe red rise over the Arizona desert as I dug diligently at the impressive constellation of urchin spines lodged firmly in the soles of my feet.

Leading up to Finals Day at Peniche, with the Nazaré event a looming possibility and the World Title already assumed, it was remarkable to see the surf world’s attention, after weeks fixed on the Eastern Atlantic action, turn so swiftly and thoroughly west. 

Hawaii, you have our undivided attention. 

Last week, after an afternoon session at Coxos (missing the mid-tide run enjoyed by Tiago Pires, Miguel Fortes, Vasco Ribiero, and visiting pros Brenden Gibbons and Dillon Perillo, while Albee Layer, Nic Von Rupp, and Torrey Meister charged damned proper Cave), I bolted north, passing the post-Round 5 Peniche traffic jam headed for for Praia Grande, where a handful of the Big Wave Tour vets and hopefuls had just finished a Nazaré consolation session. The WSL had just pulled the Portuguese plug. And the BWT guys were scrambling to buy tickets across the globe for Pe’ahi.

After a dinner of grilled langostino with the PUKAS boys, I settled in for an anxious night’s sleep: Nazaré would be pumping in the AM, and if the Peniche quarters were pushed to a 9AM call, I could gamble the ski ride out with the boys, catch one beast, bomb the shore break, climb the stairs to my rental and be standing at Supertubos for John’s crowning. Given the time change, the boys back in Sydney and Los Angeles would never know I wasn’t chained to the WSL’s tattered media tent, dutifully reporting… 

2017 10 28 Pukas Surf Nazare 2017 Out of action 63

Scary beautiful.

Photography

Aitor Molina / PUKAS Surf

2017 10 28 Pukas Surf Nazare 2017 Out of action 50

Grant “Twiggy” Baker suiting up the day Nazaré would have run, and about to bail for Maui.

Photography

Aitor Molina

Standing on the Nazaré cliffs at dawn, Twiggy Baker, Joe Joe Roper, Alex Botelho, Coco Nogales, Indar Inuate, Adur Letamendia, and my main European squeeze as of late, Natxo Gonzalez, were tripping over the Jaws call, as groomed, offshore 20-footers detonated hundreds of feet below. 

“Leaving after offshore, 20-foot Nazaré to go surf 60-foot onshore Jaws, should be an interesting few days,” Twiggy said, just as my phone updated: Peniche was a go, 8:00AM start. I was off the hook for the XL session and I was already late, a wave of relief washed over me on the forty minute sprint south, I arrived just in time to see John John Florence sit idly by as Kolohe Anding packed up the freshly shined World Title and sent it to Pipeline. 

As Twiggy and the boys boarded flight bound for Maui, the surf world’s gaze followed, though even the most optimistic forecasts couldn’t have predicted the madness that would unfold. 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/Yy0JlgBxVMU

The Pe’ahi Challenge will go down as one of the most extraordinary events in surf history. Superlatives get thrown around these days like monkeys and shit, but tuning in to the final from a dark, smoke-filled bar in Lisbon, just as Ian Walsh chipped in to his somehow still underscored 10, we found our jaws hanging dumbly, unsure of exactly what we’d just seen: “What the actual fuck, Ian Walsh?” we posted to Instagram.

@paigealms: “Best wave ever!”

@badboyryry_Marry me @ian.walsh

@bourezmichel: “This is fucked up!!!!! Next level @ian.walsh !!! #respect”

@mayhemb3_mattbiolos: “That must be one of the best rides in the history of surfing.”

With the highlight reel still sizzling—Billy Kemper, Kai Lenny, Albee Layer, Ryan Hipwood and others all packing remarkable Jaws bombs—the completion rate at Pe’ahi seams unheard of for a big wave event, just a clear and present indication of just how radical big wave surfing’s gotten in the last five years. We heard the Maui boys rang in Ian and Paige’s wins in style (“I went to bed at 7:30”- Albee Layer), as Michael collected acclaim for Ian’s ridiculous bomb. 

Speaking of Maui, I’m so glad we sent Rory Parker over, even if the guy missed the boat both days, probably ripping shitties in that candy red ‘Stang in a muddy lot nearby. I can’t imagine what those heats felt like from the channel, watching the safety patrol swat at that drone before the chopper descended. 

https://player.vimeo.com/video/240610164

 

While Pe’ahi pumped, the North Shore got the “shit end of the stick” according to one of our fav North Shore lensman, Laserwolf.

“While Peahi was perfect and sunny all day Saturday, we had wind and rain and victory at sea here on Oahu,” he wrote, accompanying a gorg over the shoulder barrel shot of John Florence, fresh off his, um, European shortcoming. “I swam out to Pipe anyway and saw John make his way down to Off The Wall so I followed. It was heavy and shifty but at least the sun was shining. In two hours, he got two good ones, broke his board and I got absolutely smoked by a 6-8 footer (Hawaiian scale) that rolled me all over the reef and sent me to the beach.”

unnamed 16

John Florence, Sunday at Off the Wall.

Photography

Laserwolf

Don’t that just sound like paradise? (And not like the one Kelly’s building in Florida.) Good lord we can practically taste the haupia pie. We’ll be hearing (and seeing) more from Laserwolf this month, as Rory spends some time getting to know one of the hardest working guys in the biz. Laser is one of a handful of East Coasters with the grit to have a crack at making it amongst the North Shore’s ferocious photog pack. As another fav photog of Stab‘s, Mickey Smith, famously said, Even if you can only scrape a living, at least its a living with scraping. 

In case you missed it, make sure to give Michael’s feature on Laurie Towner  a read, as well as Jake Howard’s deep dive into the post-surf mind of Bobby Martinez

Back in OZ, the boys are finishing up their tour with Sumer Bright. Looked like their Coolie and Bondi benders were a hell time 😉 , and I know the Stab staffers along for the ride will be sad to see the party train come to its final destination in Byron this week. If you’re in town, head out and say hi to the boys. They’ll be sure you have a good one.

While the surf world trickles in through Honolulu customs in preparation for the Triple Crown, we’re touching down anxiously in California, thunderclouds strangely hanging in the distance. This week we’ll be tracking down a few pintails, eyeing LAX-HNL specials mid-month. With Kelly officially back in for Pipe, and some very precious real estate up for grabs on what’s looking like a very different 2018 World Tour, we’re looking forward to a front row seat for the drama. 

Until then, keep it cutty, with a little class, Stab. 

Smashton Scroggans

Editor in Chief

Comments

Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.

Already a member? Sign In

Want to join? Sign Up

Advertisement

Most Recent

Correction: J-Bay All Foreplay, No Climax

Slim pickings on Day 1 of the Corona Cero Open J-Bay 2025.

Jul 11, 2025

What Do Hollywood, Surf Lessons, Michael Jackson And Traction Pads Have In Common?

A Stab Interview with Teva Dexter, the man behind surfing's hardest new hardware brand —…

Jul 10, 2025

Surf100 Challenge Series Presented By Pacifico: Episode 3

"The tribe has spoken," Dane Reynolds pronounced, and a surfer's torch was snuffed.

Jul 10, 2025

How Josh Ku Nearly Died Trying To Cross From Ulus to G Land by Hydrofoil

“If someone finds me dead at least they can find my phone and know what…

Jul 10, 2025

Expect No Kiss, All Climax At The “World’s Most Perfect Pointbreak”

A Corona Cero Open J-Bay 2025 preview.

Jul 9, 2025

SEOTY: Liam O’Brien stars in ‘Friction of Perception’

"Hopefully I don’t come across like too much of a peanut."

Jul 8, 2025

10 Shapers To Watch In The Next 10 Years — Part One

“It’s like a drug empire, man. Cut the head off the snakes, and more will…

Jul 7, 2025

Mason Ho Joins Ritual Vision, Releases Remix Of Greatest Hits

Dion Agius riffs on the eyewear brand’s U.S. expansion, Ritualistic Tendencies, and the new stars…

Jul 7, 2025

Is It Time For A New Judging Format?

We have a modest proposal — a WSL head judge disagrees.

Jul 7, 2025

Luke Thompson Turns Last Year’s Priority Disaster Into Ballito Gold

+ earns himself a wildcard into Jbay.

Jul 7, 2025

Fiji Has Its First Professional Surfer, And He’s Unbelievable

16-year-old James Kusitino’s incomprehensible tube lounging leads to a deal with Former.

Jul 6, 2025

Laird Hamilton on The Limitations of Being a Purist, Invention vs. Ownership + Why He Never Had a Sticker Deal 

Untold stories from his How Surfers Get Paid interview.

Jul 4, 2025

When Surfer’s Eye Is Actually Cancer

Erin Campbell's brutal journey from surf camp dreams to chemo drops, cryotherapy, and surgical horror.

Jul 3, 2025

Surfing’s 2025 Q2 Report

An assessment of surfing's vital signs throughout the second quarter of 2025.

Jul 2, 2025

What Actually Happened to Occy’s Mad Max Plunger Pool In Yeppoon?

Surf Lakes’ brass talks: internet hecklers, the unplugging of the plunger, and the Tom Curren…

Jul 2, 2025

Poor Goofy Foots 

Data shows that the world is stacked against goofs — they even make 15% less money than…

Jul 1, 2025

Britain’s First Wavepool Has Closed — What Really Happened?

Bankruptcy, social media hackings, debts unpaid — and yet, reopening looms.

Jul 1, 2025

Watch: Was Matt Meola’s Air Actually Better Than Hughie’s?

Watch the full Swatch Nines highlight reel and decide.

Jun 30, 2025
Advertisement