Are We About To Lose Keramas For Good? - Stab Mag

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A young world champ at Keramas, from a distant Wozzle comp. Photo: WSL

Are We About To Lose Keramas For Good?

“If this marina gets built, mark my words: Keramas will be gone.”

news // Dec 19, 2024
Words by Jack O'Neill Paterson
Reading Time: 5 minutes

Three months have slipped by since we last checked in on a development gutting an iconic stretch of Indonesian coastline. Long enough for a caterpillar to emerge as a butterfly, for a season to change, for a fracture to mend. Time enough, you’d think, to ditch a bad habit.

But this bad habit has proven difficult to kick, and now the vultures are circling above Keramas. With eyes fixed on greenbacks, developers have set their sights on the jewel of Bali’s East Coast — more than ready to strip it bare instead of letting it exist as nature intended. 

Overnight, Swan Paradise Resort — neighbours and allegedly rivals of the famous Hotel Komune — unveiled a bold new plan to build a marina, a floating restaurant, and ramp up recreational, non-surfing activities at Keramas Beach. The aim is to transform it into a visitor-friendly, flat-water bay — burying the memory of its world-class right-hander. 

The development plan, according to a source present at recent meetings, bears an unsettling resemblance to the Matahari Terbit Port in Sanur — a place used as a gateway to the Gili Islands and now teeming with jet skis, kite flying, inflatable water sports, and a motley crowd of floaty-toting families and chiseled Russians.

According to a statement from Komune Resort, this development will “permanently destroy the surf break, resulting in the loss of thousands of tourists each year and a devastating impact on the surfing industry in Bali.” 

On paper, the proposal appears completely counterintuitive. Why would you want to destroy a natural feature that, even though it doesn’t exactly fit your marketed demographic of guests, still attracts tourists and visitors to the area where your resort exists?

Well, here’s where the juice begins to drip. According to speculation from a local source, Swan Paradise and Komune are having a little territorial square off — an alpha battle to see who’s the top dog in the area.

“Swan definitely wants to get rid of Komune,” says the source. “From a business perspective, if you’re short-sighted, you want to eliminate your competition. If this marina gets built right in front of the Swan Villas, which are directly west of Keramas, mark my words: Keramas will be gone.”

A few weeks back, Swan Villas held a semi-public meeting to inform those they deemed important about their grand development. Present at the meeting, reportedly, was a professor of an unknown discipline from Udayana University — who did their best to spin a well-researched web of benefits this development will bring to the area, both economic and environmental. Two weeks later, the director of Swan Villas sent out an invitation letter to potential investors, attempting to sell them on the idea.

“Obviously, they’re paying off this professor to back their claims. If he’s not getting paid — there’s no chance he’s going to be pushing for this development,” says Piter Panjaitan, founder of the Bali Life Foundation and a front-line fighter in the battle to save Uluwatu.

Kolohe @ Keramas, filming for SITD earlier this year. Photo: Nate Lawrence

Two days ago, the local community, led by the village chief, united to oppose the project and firmly rejected the idea of building a marina at Keramas. Even so, according to Piter, without backing, their voice means little against the power of international developers.

“Local people who don’t have any qualifications can’t argue with a professor. Even if he’s wrong, they’re going to lose anyway,” says Piter. “I know the local guys there, and I told them, ‘If they play dirty like that, you’ve got to play like them too.’ Bring your own professor, do a comprehensive environmental impact assessment to counter theirs. Because if they bring an expert, you bring an expert — there’s no other way you can fight it. Make it happen. If you want to protect your visitors and protect Keramas, you’ve got to fight, and the surf community will rally behind you.”

A man who will be especially saddened by the loss of Keramas. Parko by WSL

Opposing developments in Bali is often a losing battle. If the government wants something done, it will generally push forward — regardless of who’s standing in the way. And for those who stand too firmly, the stakes can escalate into genuine danger.

Retaliation against anyone in opposition to development plans is a very real threat, with officials showing little tolerance for dissent. “If you challenge the government’s plans, you risk being thrown in jail or deported for defamation,” a source warned us a while back.

Case in point: not long ago, after a prominent influencer voiced concerns about a development proposal on Instagram, government officials paid her a visit. They demanded she take down the video, then helpfully shoved a scripted apology in her hands. Smile for the camera, or else. 

And then there’s the man who turned up dead at the base of Uluwatu’s temple during the uproar over the cliff face massacre. Foul play is only speculation, but the point is, speaking out comes with a weight that can pull you under.

None of this, however, has silenced Piter. One of the few local voices willing to call out the greed devouring his island, he’s relentless in exposing the truth. Through his Instagram, he delivers sharp, clear information to the public in both Bahasa and English — a thorn in the side of businessmen who would rather see him quiet. While every other local source has requested anonymity, Piter stands firm, unshaken by the looming threat of reprisal.

“Do not put me on anonymous. Put my name on it. Fuck it. I fear no one,” Piter declares with conviction. “If it’s my time to go, it’s my time to go. I almost died six months ago surfing Uluwatu. Took six 12-foot waves on the head. So, death threats from fake accounts don’t scare me.”

His voice softens. “I’m taking care of 49 children in my home. I run feeding and learning centres — each with 60 kids. I’ve got schools, programs for underprivileged children here in Bali and beyond. Some of my foster kids are surf instructors now. They make their living in the ocean — teaching at Uluwatu, Balangan, Dreamland, Padang. That’s why I do this. That’s why I fight. My only fear is for my family”

According to Piter, the key difference between this Keramas proposal and the Uluwatu debacle earlier in the year is timing. This time, we’ve gotten in early. As far as we can tell, the project is backed solely by an international developer and hasn’t yet secured full government support. At Uluwatu, the bulldozers were already firing up before the project was even made public. Here, we’re still at the proposal stage. It’s good news, but Piter could use some muscle to help bear the weight. 

“Everybody needs money, man. All of us. That’s the truth. But we’ve got to start thinking beyond our wallets — thinking about the future, our kids, the next generation. Especially for us living on this island. The coastlines give us everything — our livelihood, our playground, our culture.

“Corporate greed is breaking nature piece by piece. Slowly, slowly, we’re losing what makes Bali alive. We’re not fighting for what we’ve already lost — we’re fighting for what’s still left. I don’t know how much money these big hotels have behind them, but if we don’t move as one, this destruction will definitely happen.”

Piter ends our conversation with a rallying plea: “I never lose hope, brother. But fighting alone is exhausting. We need to come together. We all need to fight, together.”

We’ll keep you posted as the story evolves.

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