Nat Young, patience rewarded at Rockpiles, Hawaii

Hawaii and her fruits really do taste like paradise. On a day when the North Shore was head high (on the sets, at best), Nat Young, pictured here, waited and Rockpiles with some pals in the hopes that a real set would roll through. And, talk about being at the right place at the right time. “My focus was on the crew punting full rotations at Off The Wall,” says photog Trevor Moran. “But every once in a while I’d see a quick, tiny barrel roll through at Rockpiles. As a lull settled in at Off The Wall, a peak started to form outside Rockpiles and quickly I spun my camera to see Nat stroke into this wedge.” Since this wave as bigger than anything else that’d come through all day, Nat was wildly under-gunned (evident in the near-fall body fold midway through). But, kid held on. And, far be it from Stab to decide a 21-frame tube sequence ain’t cool as sin.