The Heartbreaking, Inspiring Story Of Derek Dunfee - Stab Mag

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Before inflatable vests, and before traumatic brain injuries were widely discussed — or even known about — in surfing, Derek Dunfee was one of the world's best big wave surfers. Here, he's seen catching the wave that won him the Billabong XXL Monster Paddle award for the 2008 - 2009 season. His story may not have a perfectly happy ending, but it’s incredibly inspiring. Photo: Fred Pompermayer

The Heartbreaking, Inspiring Story Of Derek Dunfee

The former XXL Award winner opens up about why he’ll never surf a wave over head high again.

Words by Alistair Klinkenberg
Reading Time: 9 minutes

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