Damien Hobgood’s Leave of Absence

Former XXL award winner and author, Derek Dunfee, spent his winter curating a short film with Damien Hobgood.  The video is a collection of highlights that belong to a looser timeline, featuring both iconic and unseen moments of Hobgood’s surfing.

Damien has assimilated to a more routine-based life in Cardiff, California. 

“I’m really focused on my kids,” Damien explained. “The ocean’s not going anywhere, and there’s times when you have to take breaks.” 

Although his focus has been elsewhere, Hobgood has not abandoned the craft.

Damien can still be found swiveling his hips on the shittiest day at Cardiff or packing at  Black’s Beach – that one nudist spot in Southern CA that can actually hold size. 

Take four minutes to trek around Cardiff, watch timelessly good surfing, and hear Damien’s take on dad life.