The Right Isn’t Always Sheet-Glass Perfection
But it is permanently lethal.
It’s uncommon to see The Right, a wave named for its direction rather than its fury, surfed on days of imperfect conditions. I suppose the logic is that, at a wave this inherently dangerous, it doesn’t make sense to add more obstacles (i.e. wind chop and chandeliers) into the equation. But sometimes, when you’ve got that itch to surf a 20-foot bear trap, it’s possible to overlook these impediments and give it a go regardless.
In this clip we meet a crew of dedicated individuals, whose passion for “fun” overrides any sense of fear or logic. On a windswept day at The Right, these fellas whip in deep and do their best to find the channel. It ain’t always pretty, but we can’t knock the hustle.
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