The World’s Five Most Compelling Surfers (with Dion Agius)
Who do you believe are the five most arresting surfers roaming this earth, like, right now? Dion Agius is a pro surfer, a photographer, a business devil (Epokhe) and makes enough honey in his hive to support a beautiful nomadic lifestyle. He sees much surfing. He knows what sticks. 1. Andrew Doheny. Mr Andrew Doheny […]
Who do you believe are the five most arresting surfers roaming this earth, like, right now? Dion Agius is a pro surfer, a photographer, a business devil (Epokhe) and makes enough honey in his hive to support a beautiful nomadic lifestyle. He sees much surfing. He knows what sticks.
1. Andrew Doheny.
Mr Andrew Doheny whose image here in Indonesia was stolen by infra-red film, taps out a different beat to most. He shapes, he guitars and owns a fin-throw-slide-combo of the most awesome grandeur. Photo by Tom Carey
I’m sure you’ve seen so much of him but I still feel like we know so little. I’ve known him for a long time and have a lot of friends that claim he’s the most awesome dude ever but I don’t know him very well. There’s a certain air about Andrew that I can’t put my finger on. He feels as though he could take off in a van at any moment and disappear into the depths of Mexico, laying down Tom Curren-esque hacks solo at some mysto point, never to be seen again. Or he might be on the brink of becoming one of the biggest breakthrough performers of the year. Andrew is one of the most talented surfers in the world right now and he’s quite content whether anyone knows it or not.
2. Ozzie Wright.
Petrol price air in NSW. Photo by Matt Withaar
How can one man be so good for so long and still maintain every bit of awesomeness as Oz? Not only one of the nicest guys ever and a committed family man, Ozzie still maintains his figure head position as one of the greatest influencers on our sport. And he’ll keep doing it until the day he can’t launch himself out of a two-foot shorebreak onto the sand anymore.
3. Ryan Heywood.
This man is six foot and has hair past his nipples. But that ain’t all that thrills. Ryan exudes energy unlike any man that has ever lived. Is he on mushrooms consistently or just plain high on life? I think the latter and maybe just plain high on surfing. There’s a good chance you will see a giant flash of a man wearing an all-over lycra bodysuit and flying down the line like a wild animal at Tallows on a finless craft. When Ryan isn’t in the water surfing he spends his time creating absolutely incredibly images behind his lens. Some of surfing. Some of the tips of soft-serve ice-cream cones. Either way, when he’s shooting surfing he creates some of the most incredible and refreshing imagery you’re likely to see.
4. John John Flo.
Reaching for tomorrow in WA. Photo by Shane Dawson
He is too good. Why is he so good? What is he doing? Does he surf three times a day every day? I don’t understand. Every time I see a video, a contest, a clip, he seems to be getting better. How is it possible to be so good and then keep getting better. Himself, Kelly and this last guy are now the best three surfers in the world.
5. Dane. Reynolds.
A Venturan huck, as brilliant as ever. Photo: Andrew Schoener
He’s good looking, smart, humble, nice, creative, genuine, has a really pretty house, with heaps of awesome knick-knacks, with nice dogs and a really nice girlfriend. And maybe the best surfer that has ever lived. And what makes him tick, who knows? I don’t think we will ever know. He loves surfing so much. It makes me so motivated because he loves it more than anyone I know. As much as any 12-year-old kid who has just learned how to do floaters or cutbacks. But he is 28, and the best surfer in the world, and he still has that. That’s incredible. I like him so much for that.
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