Please, Yell At People In The Ocean

Ed note: the following is the third installment of our new weekly email chain called the Stab Fwd. If you’re into it, subscribe here.

I used to buy into the whole “surfers are selfish pricks” thing. 

It made me jealous of the skate community, because it seemed like exactly that: A community. Not in an overarching sense, but in the way that people interact with each other when they’re doing it. Kicking back. Taking turns. Encouraging one another, regardless of skill level. It makes the whole experience more fun. I know these things can’t be universally applied to skating, but I think they’re more prevalent there than in surfing. 

Let’s be honest, though. Skate spots don’t spontaneously appear and explode up and down the street in a relatively unpredictable way that happens to favor those who are lucky, wise, or both. They don’t fade away because a certain wind stopped blowing near Antarctica 82 hours ago. It’s just different. 

Not to be a company man, but I think that’s part of what made Stab High so cool. It proved that, when you take that element — the elements — out of surfing, the sense of comradery is alive and well. 

That’s part of what changed my perspective. That, and accepting that everyone is a selfish prick to an extent. Is surfing more selfish than running? Than golf? Should we cancel all hobbies and/or pursuits of pleasure? 

I don’t think so. But we can make surfing more fun in a communal way. 

That’s what I’ve been trying to do lately. Giving people waves when I’m deeper. Yelling people into waves when I’m not. Complimenting strangers when I see them do something on the higher end of what they seem capable of. 

Maybe it’s a response to all that has been 2020, but it’s led to nothing but good things. 

Sal Masekela’s Speech On Racism And Surfing Will Give You Chills

This went live shortly after last week’s Fwd went out. It’s as relevant today as it was a week ago, as it will be for time to come. Give it a watch if you haven’t already. And if you’re in a position to support a good cause, check out this tee.

Watch: Harry Bryant Keeps A Framed Photo Of Kelly Slater And Steve Irwin In His Foyer

This is a heartwarming piece of cinematography and should be treated as fine art and permanently exhibited in the museum of your brain. 

What If We Told You There Was A World-Class Wave In Mississippi? 

This is not a rhetorical question. What if we told you that? Would you click on a story that goes into detail about said wave? Would you read the whole story? Would you appreciate the art angle that worked its way in? Would you scroll immediately to the comments and chuckle at a trail mix quip from an individual who identifies as “slaters foot”? 

Now, you been getting waves? 

If you happened to be in Oceanside, California on Monday between the hours of 5:30 AM – 8:30 AM PST, the answer appears to be yes. This had a wintery feel to it, which is strange for June in CA. Come for the photos and stay for the surf forecasting sword fight in the comments. 

Want to feel something? 

When Carissa Moore’s film dropped a few weeks ago, I read something along the lines of, “This is how women’s surfing should be marketed.” Eh. That was how Carissa Moore’s surfing should be marketed, maybe, but that doesn’t mean it should serve as a playbook for all-female surf films. 

Example? Here’s Jaleesa Vincent via RAGE. I loved this edit. Like others that have been featured here, the surfing is polarizing. I think there’s a certain attitude in the way she rides waves and it made me want to go out and feel that shit.  

Highlight: Scotty Hammonds 

Scotty and I spoke a few months back, when Coronavirus was heating up and the world was shutting down. I recall feeling somewhat lucky to not be riding it out in a third-world country. That changed, abruptly, when he began to send me iPhone images of empty Uluwatu. 

Out of all the COVID-19 2020 tales, Scotty’s is rather interesting. He’s a great photographer/filmer, so click on the photo to scope his Instagram and give him a follow if you like what you see. 

Despite everything that’s going on, being in Bali for the last few months has been incredible. 

With the island on lockdown, there have been no international flights coming in. Tourists haven’t been able to travel to the island, so it’s just been locals, ex-pats, and some travelers who got stranded here. 

Waves that are usually packed with people have been empty. I don’t think I’ll ever get to see Uluwatu and Keramas with no one out again, so it’s been a treat to shoot. 

The local government has done a really good job of keeping things under control, with each Banjar (local council) handling the regulations for each area. This has included curfews, social distancing and unfortunately, keeping some of the beaches closed. 

While I’ve selfishly enjoyed how quiet and empty the lineups have been, I’m actually looking forward to the island getting busy so that all the locals and everyone who has a business here can start to make a living again. The community has really come together to support those who are struggling and it’s been inspiring to see everyone pitching in. 

It might be a while until things are back to “normal” so for now, we’ll keep doing our part and enjoying a few empty waves while we’re at it.

One last thing: 

Following up on last week, I’d like to use this space to recommend Ta-Nehisi Coates’ Between The World And Me. It’s written as a letter to his son, and phenomenally so. It’s a fairly quick read and served as an eye-opener for me.

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