Watch: A Few Waves From Wednesday Evening At Pipe
Twilight hollows with Makua and Koa Rothman, Kalani Chapman, JOB and Lucas Godfrey!
On Wednesday evening at Pipeline, while the sun set and the earth cooled, conditions greeted the incoming swell like an old friend – no time lost, no break in conversation.
From the lawn of the Weedmaps house, we watched as the ocean pulsed and 100 bobbing heads took to the lineup. On the inside, 30 photographers and filmers tried to out position each other, hoping for the shot. The next day we got this edit featuring Koa and Makua Rothman, Lucas Godfrey, and Jamie O.
That afternoon, I watched, drank a few beers with no intentions of joining the crowded mayhem at Pipe and Backdoor. Off the Wall looked slightly more manageable. I finished a beverage, grabbed a 6’8 and paddled out.
Floating over waves, I could see Pipe doing its “it” thing, battles for waves, shouts and cries for increasingly large tubes reverberated through the lineup with the energy of a Roman Colosseum. The boys were hungry for blood.
I found two waves before dark at Off the Wall, and rolled in. Returning to the house, Nathan Fletcher greeted me with a handshake.
“Where’d you surf?” he asked.
“Ah, just dodged tubes and got beat up at Off the Wall.”
“Right on,” he said. “Most those magazine guys don’t surf when it’s like this. They sit and talk shit behind their computer. Good to know you’ll take beatings with the rest of us.”
“I try,” I shyly smiled, feeling proud.
Probably best he didn’t see any of my waves…
Here’s Everything We’ve Learned About Hawaii’s Viral Jet Ski Saga
One question remains unanswered.
Inside the Roaring 2000s at Quiksilver, Part 2 of 3
Jamie Tierney shares the ups and downs of Dane's days at Quiksilver. "How does a…
How A Potentially Lethal Wetsuit Allergy Turned Into Overnight Art Success
“I figured that if the old guys pre-70's could be tough enough to surf through…
Hawaii Report: The Day The Eddie Didn’t Run
Oahu was massive today. Here are some photos to prove it.
Skegss Are Not A Surf Band
The remarkable musical ascension of three boys from unremarkable coastal towns.
If you’re an A-list surfer, there’s a good chance you’ve invested in booze
From hard seltzer to hard kombucha to new beer brands and even non-alcoholic beverages, see…
The Fwd: What’s The Most Questionable Surfboard Trend You’ve Followed?
Let's cringe together.
First & Last: How Many Boards Does Yago Dora Bring on a 7-Day Surf Trip?
The answer might surprise you.
Lessons Learned: Selema Masekela (Free)
On surfing, growing up, and difficult conversations. This voice of action sports shares his path…