The never-before-surfed wave is still out there
The fantasy’s not dead and it’s questionable if it will ever be. There’s so much ocean, so many islands, miles of coastline and the beautiful thing about swell is that it never stops. There’s an infinite amount of waves, small, large, slabs, tubes and ripples. And yes, plenty have been mapped out. Surfer’s aren’t great at keeping secrets… you tell a friend, they tell a friend and so on and so forth until it mimics a pyramid scheme with no payout for the top dog. Here Dillon Perillo, Luke Hynd and Pat Curren travel to the island of $#@* to find a wave never before ridden and experience the same sensation of Robert August and Mike Hynson’s first trip to Africa.
The fantasy’s not dead and it’s questionable if it will ever be. There’s so much ocean, so many islands, miles of coastline and the beautiful thing about swell is that it never stops. There’s an infinite amount of waves, small, large, slabs, tubes and ripples. And yes, plenty have been mapped out. Surfer’s aren’t great at keeping secrets… you tell a friend, they tell a friend and so on and so forth until it mimics a pyramid scheme with no payout for the top dog. Here Dillon Perillo, Luke Hynd and Pat Curren travel to the island of $#@* to find a wave never before ridden and experience the same sensation of Robert August and Mike Hynson’s first trip to Africa.
Comments
Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.
Already a member? Sign In
Want to join? Sign Up