"I've Had Two Concussions Surfing Here" - Stab Mag
Photo by @jamesferrell_

“I’ve Had Two Concussions Surfing Here”

Chronicles of a Newport shore-hound.

cinema // Mar 29, 2023
Words by Holden Trnka
Reading Time: 2 minutes

You’ve probably seen the IPD logo at increasing frequencies of late — whether kicking around our site or watching team rider Kai Paula careen through the beefy mandibles of Peahi.

Their growing team includes SEOTY entrant Kai Paula, Ben Coffey, and — featured above — Ty Burgess.

Ty is 21-years old, and was brought into the IPD fold by collaborator and talented surfer Dane Zaun. And, as you’d expect from someone who grew up lurking around Northern Orange County, he loves a bit of gravelly shorepound.

Specifically, he enjoys the mostly unmakeable sand-slapper just adjacent to The Wedge — an ugly beast known as Cylinders. “Out of everywhere I’ve surfed it’s still my favorite wave, because most people don’t even think of paddling out,” Ty tells me. “50-75% of the waves are unmakeable, so when u get a good one it feels that much better. I’ve had two concussions there that kept me out of the water for a week each. It’s just so close to the sand, plus, when it’s on it’s as slabby and scary as a beach break gets.”

We’ll take his word for it.

Mouthful of sand impending. Photo by @zanmilan

The above edit, No Passport, is what happens when you’ve got a deadline, no swell, and no travel capabilities. “We were planning on premiering the edit sometime in August but we didn’t get any waves so we almost canceled the whole thing,” says Ty. “We ended up getting two solid south swells in September and October, which is late for here. The spots in the edit are my three favorite spots I grew up at, and I ended up being stoked with the outcome.”

Fortunately, Ty’s gotten a new passport, and will be heading on some international excursions for the purpose of waveriding soon.

Looking forward to it.


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