Can You Ever Get Bored Of The Box?

The (overly quoted) definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over, while expecting a different result.

What about doing the same thing over and over, while being satisfied with the same result?

Say, stroking into innumerable lines of swell towards a short, predictable, treacherous horseshoe reef?

Contentment, happiness, peace — antithetical sentiments to insanity fill the mind. 

“I don’t think you could ever get bored surfing out there, just because it’s such an easy drop into such a square barrel,” laughs Crosby, as he recharges at home between events. “There’s no other wave that I’ve ever surfed that is that fun and also kinda scary if you fall in the wrong spot. Just a nice, easy roll-in, into a beautiful blue square barrel and then getting spat out. I don’t think I’d even get bored if I’d lived there.”

“There’s those waves, that, if you’re behind the foam ball, go so square it’ll just blow up in the barrel. It’s hard to be deep and make barrels. If you’re deep and you’re coming out, you’ll probably hit a big foam ball and it’ll be a crazy ride which keeps it exciting even though it’s short.”

“For this session, I paddled out early in the morning. and then after Griffin lost, he was watching it for a little bit. There were like six or seven WSL skis in the water at Margs, he paddled out and asked the guy for a ride, but was told nobody can get a ride from Margaret’s to the Box. So Griff just paddled all the way from Margs, which is a psycho paddle if you’ve seen it. Huge channel.”

“He was psyched that he came out after losing because it washed off the loss.”