This Is A Surfer’s Surfer

Not all surfers are cut from the same blank. 

Some are technique-driven, others are stylists, but a small handful surf straight from the heart.

That’s Marco Giorgi. A surfer’s surfer. 

Marco’s the kinda guy who always manages to find the wave of the day, even if it presents as a misshapen double-up out the back. He’ll get that look in his eye and paddle ferociously toward the shore, while the rest of the crowd sits there scratching their heads. Then the wave reforms into a backless tube on the inside, and they get understand quite well.

Marco knows things they don’t. 

And these “things” are completely intangible. You can’t just learn them from a coach, nor even Marco himself. Knowledge of this nature is innate. Slater has it. Jack Robbo has it. Steph too. But all the money in the world can’t buy it.

That’s the beauty of it, after all. And why we always take time to appreciate a true surfer’s surfer, like Marco Giorgi (especially for the bs straighty at 2:20).