Stab Magazine | The Downside Of Big, Consistent Swells

"Horse" — A surf film by James Kates starring Noa Deane — streams this Thursday, 3/20, at 5 PM (PDT) exclusively on Stab Premium.

359 Views

The Downside Of Big, Consistent Swells

Parts of NSW Central Coast are seeing their worst erosion in years, and there’s another swell coming. 

news // Jul 26, 2020
Words by stab
Reading Time: 2 minutes

We’ve rightly been raving on about the stellar year the East Coast of Australia has been having; swell after swell accompanied with offshore winds and plentiful options to break upon. While we haven’t crunched any numbers – we’ll leave that up to Swellnet – it’s the best run of Autumn –> Winter swell we’ve witnessed in years.

There is however a downside to swells of this size with an incessant nature. Firstly, it leaves surfers like me, who are scared of big waves, little options to surf, but perhaps more importantly, it does serious damage to the coastlines and the houses built upon them.

Wamberal, on the New South Wales Central Coast has recently seen several homes damaged and fears some homes will be lost entirely. The State Emergency Service reported that it’s the worst erosion seen in the area for 30 years, with foundations to houses exposed and verandas lost entirely. 

“There’s always been impact on that area, but for some reason, this event has taken away far more land than we expected,” Rolf Garda told the ABC.

Even a few hundred boulders won’t stop swells of this magnitude. Photo: Anthony Parry/Facebook

Some locals are angry precautionary strategies haven’t been used to protect their houses. Some have taken it upon themselves to dump large rocks between their properties and the surf, but this has little influence against five-metre plus swells for days on end. 

To make things worse, asbestos has also been found along Wamberal and other beaches according to The Sydney Morning Herald. Years ago, the asbestos was found buried under a house, but as it was not properly removed, it has now been exposed along the beach by these swells.

Locals have alleged that the council buried the asbestos under the sand after promising and failing to properly remove it. 

Stockton beach an hour north in Newcastle has also seen better days. 

“It has basically been destroyed,” the Northside Boardriders’ Club president told The Guardian“There’s metres of erosion pretty much from one end of Stockton to another.” Adding that this is the worst and fastest erosion he thinks he has seen, estimating that up to 30 metres of the beach has been lost in the past three years.

This all comes less than a year after the suburb’s only childcare centre closed permanently due to coastal erosion.

To make things worse, another large swell is due to hit NSW this week. A 12-foot swell is forecast to hit Sydney on Tuesday which will peter out throughout the week. For us surfers, it will be accompanied by some strong south-westerlies (I imagine Deadmans will be packed with masochistic maniacs again), but this will do little to help the damage dealt to coastal houses these past few weeks. 

Comments

Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Gotta join to talk shop.

Already a member? Sign In

Want to join? Sign Up

Advertisement

Most Recent

Interview: Matt Parker Becomes New Head Shaper At Morning Of The Earth Surfboards

"It's for people who wanna feel something again," says Parker about his fourth board label.

Mar 19, 2025

Griffin Cola Falls To French Rookie, Italo Marches On At Mach-15

And Supertubos goes on strike for a couple of days.

Mar 18, 2025

Legacy Brands Bet Big On Future, Leo Grabs A High-Fashion Bag & The “Influencer Model” Alters Quarter-Century Deals

Nine new sponsorship updates from the surf industry frontlines.

Mar 18, 2025

The Best Wavepool You’ll Never Surf

Jacob Szekely speaks on São Paulo’s internet-breaking, members only, chlorinated catapult.  

Mar 18, 2025

Supertubos Goes From Flat To Firing, Then Straight Up Fucking Scary

Jack Robinson earns his lunch, Erin Brooks takes Caity Simmers to 2-0.

Mar 17, 2025

“The Purest Style Of His Generation”

Shane Herring has passed away, age 53. 

Mar 17, 2025

Why Netflix Hates Surfing

Plus, the real reason Make or Break wasn’t renewed for a third season.

Mar 17, 2025

Small Waves, A Brewing Storm & A Mama-To-Be Makes The Quarters

The women take over Day 2 at the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal.

Mar 16, 2025

When All Else Fails, At Least There’s Caity Simmers

A glimmering bastion of hope at the Rip Curl Pro Portugal, day one.

Mar 15, 2025

As Is Tradition, Supertubos Just Went Off Its Schnoz

Stab's preview of the 2025 Meo Rip Curl Portugal Pro. 

Mar 14, 2025

Surf vs. Development: A Bike Path That Could Change Puerto Rico Forever

Are some of the island's marquee waves under threat?

Mar 14, 2025

Stab Highway East Coast (USA) Presented By Monster Energy, Episode 7

12 days, 1,600 miles, and 200 challenges later, our teams are tied and it all…

Mar 13, 2025

“I Feel Like When I’m Parallel And I Hit A Foamball, I Carry A Lot More Momentum”

Watch Tosh Tudor deliver a veritable masterclass in alternative tuberiding.

Mar 13, 2025

Interview: Julian Wilson Earns Wildcard for 2025 Challenger Series

“It’s definitely daunting. I don’t know what my level is against these kids — but…

Mar 13, 2025

Ryan Callinan Is Out For Portugal, One Last Wildcard Up for Grabs

Politics in Portugal — who gets the call?

Mar 11, 2025

Long Read: Usman Trioko’s Path From Abject Poverty To King Of The Desert

"When I'm in the water, I'm not playing around."

Mar 10, 2025

Watch: The New Portugal CT Wildcard Can Fucking Fly

Gatien Delahaye’s masterclass in controlled repetition.

Mar 10, 2025

What’s Your Go-To Kirra Board When a Cyclone Twists?

Surveying Mick Fanning, Jack Robbo, Nav Fox, Asher Pacey, Dakoda Walters, LOB + Milla Coco-Brown's…

Mar 10, 2025
Advertisement