Superstorm Riley Day 3: New York Is A Frigid Playground (A Gallery)

Before today, I actually forgot how frigid winter sessions could be. The last two days at Newmibia were exhausting, yes, but at no point was I actually cold. The constancy of motion (from paddling and beach walks) during those sessions made it impossible for the chill to set in. Your forearms were certainly sore, but temperature was not a factor. 

New York was different. For whatever bathymetrical reason, the same swell that sent side-winding lefthanders to Newmibia peppered the island of Long Beach with pretty, current-less peaks. It was a warm-water dream, with A-frames pulsing up and down the beach, but for anyone like me, who decided it was a good idea to rock their 4/3 rather than a 5/4, the lack of paddling involved meant this was a frigid affair.

During a two-hour surf, I became so cold between waves that I repeatedly convinced myself the next one would be my last. Then I would catch that wave and have so much fun that I’d receive an instant dose of warmth, keeping me in the water for just one more. This happened roughly 10 times. 

But eventually I called it quits and spent the rest of the day bouncing around the island, shooting photos of perfect empties. 

Riley really is the gift that keeps on giving. I can’t wait to see what the next days bring.