Mark Mathews, Cape Solander, Australia

Mark Mathews has a love affair with Ours. He knows where to touch her, where to apply pressure and pace, how to tame her. She responds in kind, and they make glorious art together. Like this image, this moment – a work of art. Ours lit up two days ago and, unsurprisingly, Mark, along with pals Koby Abberton and Evan Faulks, was straight in the mix. Mark was the standout – he rarely came unstuck and was whipped into the day’s biggest waves. Though it was a little inconsistent, the sun was out and the bombs that did come were magnificent, as y’can see here.