Bethany Hamilton, Lowers

Take it away, Jimmicane: “Catching waves at Lowers is not easy. Imagine trying to do it minus one arm. This girl is crazy enough to charge big Sunset, get shacked at heaving Padang, and hustle for waves at Trestles. I know she’s gotten tons of press for what she’s gone through, but probably doesn’t get enough recognition for what she’s overcome and continues to do to this day. This is some Lance Armstrong shit (no pun intended). Props to Bethany Hamilton. I’m interested to see the movie based on her life that’s being made right now.” Right on, cuz.