Josh Kerr, swing in a single-frame session, Hawaii

As you’re aware, every house along the Pipeline to Off The Wall stretch on Hawaii’s North Shore is now brimming with professional surfers. And when you look forward to Hawaii all year, then you finally get there and set up shop at a team house, with all your teammates, it’s pretty hard to leave. With the amount of good waves in front of your house, you quickly forget how many waves there are around the rest of Hawaii.

“With the wind up and waves ragged, Josh Kerr was eager to make some moves and not let himself get too comfortable,” says photog Ryan Miller. “We hit this little spot just off the main stretch. Looked great from the beach. Plenty of waves and a perfect deep water channel to sit in and shoot from the boogie board or get eaten by a shark. Once in the water I realised that the deep channel was the exit point for about a million gallons a minute to escape from the break, back out into the ocean. I was on my way to Kauai in no time. I managed to happily get myself washed in by a set and make it to the beach. Here is my one and only frame on the boogie board ride in. Hi and goodbye.”