My Philosophy With Ozzie Wright

Surfing: I think surfing is the most worthwhile activity that a human could waste their time doing. When I think about surfing, the fact that the ocean produces these free rides that never stop coming to shore and we can jump on them and make it up as we go along is incredible. It’s creative. It makes you feel amazing, and it lets you see the world.

I just think it’s the most special, amazing scene. Surfing is the best thing I ever got to experience.

Women: Women are holy creatures. I think that they are sacred; that they should be in charge of the world. If this were the case, as humans, I believe our future would be longer and we’d be a healthier race. I feel like women are a bit more sensible. And, that men are crazy. Let the girls run things. I love women; they’re beautiful. The main women in my life are Mylee and my daughter. I love living with them. They’re an inspiration.

Social Media: God, jeez. A bit of a time waster. Over the Christmas holiday, my Instagram got hacked and I couldn’t look at it. I couldn’t use it for four weeks and I really enjoyed it. I remember, before I got on it, my friends would be on Instagram all the time, just sitting there while we’d be touring. They’d stare at their phones for hours. And I’d think, “This is shit. I’m never going to do that.”

Eventually, I guess I got with the times. And, sure enough, I found myself wasting a lot of time on it. It’s a nice way to connect and see what everyone’s up to, but it’s also weird because you know too much about what everyone is doing.

I do love all the artists and different art that you’re able to see on Instagram. That bit’s pretty cool.

Drugs and Alcohol: Well, it’s better to try and stay away from them, do it in moderation if you have to. I mean, you always have a choice and peer pressure is a bitch but you can rise above it. In the band we’ve all done a lot of partying, as I get older though, I’m trying to rein it in and become more sensible. Just nothing really beats the high of just being healthy and happy.

Travel: I’ve loved to travel ever since I was tiny. When I was young, every holiday we would travel around Australia with my family and go camping. We’d do heaps of bushwalking all along the coastline. I love being able to explore the world, I’m just a huge fan of nature and geography. Now, to take that internationally and go all around the world and meet people everywhere, and see the incredible ways other people live is so special.

Friendship: I wouldn’t be in a Rock ‘n Roll band if it wasn’t for my friends, that’s for sure. That wasn’t going to happen on its own. A lot of my friends tend to bring out the wild side in me. I wish my friends would surf with me more, but I guess they’re getting older and if they can’t call it a job, they don’t do it as much. But yeah, surfing with friends and playing in a band with my friends is the best.

Photography

Tom Carey

Religion: I’ve never been part of any religion. But I do love to see the Hindus when I’m in Bali. I love their religion. The way they have their ceremonies – they get all dressed up, celebrate life, make big offerings to the gods. I love that about it. It looks like a beautiful thing to be a part of.

I’ve never had an affiliation. I’ve been to church maybe twice, I had friends who were Catholics or went to Catholic schools growing up. I found it boring. Deep down they’ve got good messages behind them though. It’s about living the best life that you can, and that’s a good thing.

Fame: I’d hate to be a movie star. That looks terrible. To have to have like bodyguards and all that stuff and have people taking photos of you all the time. That would be hard. There’s a small level of fame that we surfers get. From where I sit, I get to make a living out of it and get filmed surfing. That’s pretty fun. Although, some surfers do get pretty damn famous. It looks like it’d be a hassle.

Surfboards: I love boards, they’re pretty much my favorite object in the world.

I just love to go really fast. I like for a board to let speed come easy. But, for the fastest boards, they’re impossible to hit the critical section of the wave because as soon as you stand up you’re in the flats. Which is great on a really down the line point break.

Speed is really important to me, but I also like to carve and change it up. I like to ride a lot of different boards. They’re the best! You get to paint them and make them your own and then you get to ride them and they give you this amazing, good time.

Style: Everyone does things in their own way. Even though we’ve all got 10 fingers and two eyes, we still do things differently. That’s what cool about style to me. Style has a fingerprint.