Dried Salt: Malibu
Photos by Matt Smith, in partnership with SurfStitch Welcome to Malibu! The swell’s 3-4ft, the wind light offshore. The water’s simmering at a fresh 14.8°C (58°F), depending on where’s home, and, as always the crowd is dense. Dried Salt‘s the board guide for the everyman, real surfers and their precious equipment. Gidget, Big Wednesday, Miki Dora, […]
Photos by Matt Smith, in partnership with SurfStitch
Welcome to Malibu! The swell’s 3-4ft, the wind light offshore. The water’s simmering at a fresh 14.8°C (58°F), depending on where’s home, and, as always the crowd is dense. Dried Salt‘s the board guide for the everyman, real surfers and their precious equipment. Gidget, Big Wednesday, Miki Dora, Malibu’s truly drenched in surf history, and here’s what it looks like on a Monday, with a little south swell running, circa 2015. We roamed the beach and rifled through the quivers and minds of whoever happened to be passing, and, seeing as it’s Malibu, the passers by just so happened to be a who’s who of colourful surf hessians! The thesis of the day was “Can surfboards make you happy?” The conclusion = Totally!
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Alex Knost, he says 45 but he’s actually 30, Costa Mesa, CA
(Pro Surfer)
What’s under your arm? Here’s my 8″ Barry Kanaiaupuni rip-off.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? The struggle is real.
Living person you admire most? Darren Radamaker.
When / where are you happiest? In the ocean.
Current state of mind? Delirious.
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Dylan Goodale, 24, Kauai, HI
(Pro Surfer)
What’s under your arm? A nice little LSD, Matt Banting model. Saw him ripping on the QS so I got one.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Yeah. Shitty boards are just the worst.
Living person you admire most? That’s hard! Maybe someone here on this beach. Everyone that’s cool has died.
When / where are you happiest? When I’m in the ocean, that’s cliche huh? There’s a lot of places…The Byrd’s Nest, 3AM.
Current state of mind? Hungover as F.
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Allen Sarlo, 57, Venice, CA
(Real Estate mogul/Malibu legend)
What’s under your arm? 6′ 8″ Jeff Ho, double-concaved rocket ship.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Totally!
Living person you admire most? Three of them…my son, my wife, and my daughter.
When / where are you happiest? Surfing with my kids, and in bed with my wife.
Current state of mind? Positive vibrations!
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Strider Wasilewski, Santa Monica, CA
(WSL Commentator)
What’s under your arm? This is the weapon. It’s a Lost / Mayhem shape. Pretty much a round-nose fish with the nose kinda taken out to make it look normal. Basically I’m cheating.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Yes!
Living person you admire most? That’s a tough question. As deep as it goes right there! My brother.
When / where are you happiest? When I’m surfing.
Current state of mind? Happiness.
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Justin Swartz, 30, Venice, CA
(Surfboard Shaper)
What’s under your arm? My surfboard! Shred stick. I think it’s 5’8.5″, about 18 3/8″ 2 1/4″. I shaped it. Swartzworx, the paw!
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Yeah. Now, it’s just as therapeutic being in the shaping room as when Im surfing.
Living person you admire most? Theo Lewitt. I’ve known him since he was a kid. Whether it was me or not, I think I can take some credit in there… (interviewer blushes…).
When / where are you happiest? When I’m surfing or in the shaping room with good people.
Current state of mind? I wanna get some waves! I’ve been running around all day, but now I can finally surf!
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Sean Tully, Los Angeles, CA
(Artist)
What’s under your arm? It’s a 7’0″ Code Runner by Sean Stussy.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Surfing is.
Living person you admire most? That guy’s pretty rad (walking by), Danny Aaberg. How about we go with him. He wrote Big Wednesday.
When / where are you happiest? Anytime outside.
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Drew Lumsden, 30, CA
(Sales Director)
What’s under your arm? It’s a 6’3″ e-wing.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? I don’t know about paramount. But I think it definitely allows you the opportunity.
When / where are you happiest? Present moment.
Current state of mind? Happy.
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Danny Fuller, 33, Hanalei, Kauai, HI
(Pro Surfer/Photographer)
What’s under your arm? I’m riding a SurfTech, Mickey Munoz pop-out. I think it’s like 11″ of something. I bought it as a standup board like 8 years ago, but it’s actually a really nice board for catching waves and absolutely cruising. People are really bummed when you paddle out on it!
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Yeah. Surf equipment is everything! For years we made it so challenging by riding these potato chip boards. It’s a struggle around here sometimes when it comes to waves, but equipment is everything.
Living person you admire most? My mother. She paved the way!
When / where are you happiest? When I’m in the water with my wife and daughter. Doesn’t get better than that.
Current state of mind? Grateful.
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Kurt Narmore, 28, Newport Beach, CA
(Founder Hand me ups clothing)
What’s under your arm? A Tanner, from Costa Mesa.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? No.
Living person you admire most? Since we’re a Malibu, Allen Sarlo. That guy’s sick.
When / where are you happiest? When I’m cruising with my wife in my 1959 Benz. She just left in it. I’m stuck here now!
Current state of mind? Zen. Just cruising today.
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Jeff Ho, age: Legendary, Los Angeles County, CA
(Iconic surfboard shaper)
What’s under your arm? This is a 10’2″ thruster. Hows that? It’s a surfboard! This is probably one of my favorite boards.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Definitely. If you don’t have a good board or don’t have one you like, you might be an unhappy person.
Living person you admire most? I can’t think!
When/where are you happiest? Well there’s a couple of places, but I really like to be on a wave.
Current state of mind? (laughing!) Oh, I’m a happy person!
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Pascal Stansfield, 36, Malibu, CA
(Former Pro Surfer/Philanthropist)
What’s under your arm? Um, I don’t know. It’s an 11″ Micky Munoz signature surf tech single fin, red, pinstriped.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Not really. Waves are!
Living person you admire most? Jimmy Gamboa
When/where are you happiest? When I’m doing Therasurf with Mary, here.
Current state of mind? Happy with Mary! Mary let’s take a photo!
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Trace Marshall, 32, San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles, CA
(Founder of Brothers Marshall clothing)
What’s under your arm? It’s a prototype of a prototype. Down-rail, 50 / 50. Hull-bottom, but it pulls into a real flat tail, lotsa V, 2 + 1, rounded Pin. Made by Scott Anderson at Aquatech Glassing. It’s sick. Goes good. It’s tight.
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Happiness is a state of mind. Happiness is the only edgy thing left in society… surfboards are what-evs.
Living person you admire most? These autistic children surfing right now. Like Mary, not Pascal, but Mary.
When/where are you happiest? When I’m with my baby’s momma. We’re about to have a baby any days now. Right here, with my baby’s momma.
Current state of mind? I have rashed armpits right now.
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Kassia Meador, timeless, CA
(Pro surfer/Owner of Kassiasurf)
What’s under your arm? It’s a little 6’4″ Dead Kook single fin. That guy ___ shaped it. It’s just a fun little pintail with a cool little hip on it, and it just happens to match my wetsuit, which is really cool. I didn’t plan the color coordination, but when it happens, right on!
Surf equipment paramount to your happiness? Absolutely. When you have a good board, it doesn’t matter how waves are, you just wanna go surfing because you wanna ride it.
Living person you admire most? Patti Smith. She’s always a legend amongst legends.
When / where are you happiest? Right here, right now.
Current state of mind? Excited to get off the beach and into the water again!
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