Pillows of Rock (Jaws opening day)

Shane Dorian, Greg Long, Mark Healey and more were front row centre when Jaws lit up last wednesday. Opening day of the season wasn’t ideal, but it certainly wasn’t bad: “It was good, definitely worth the trip over,” says Shane Dorian. “It was… 25 feet. It was the biggest waves that’ve ever been paddled, pretty much. I didn’t catch any waves like that, but there was definitely waves like that. Nobody really got one of the huge ones. I think Mark Healey probably got the biggest wave of the day, he got a pretty good backside wave, it was real big and really steep. I told him, ‘I can’t believe you do this shit backside.’” Neither can we. And, Greg Long’s bailout will make you feel really weird.