Lee Wilson And His 5'8" At 'That' Nias Swell
"I have trouble riding step ups"
Yes, that same Indo swell where a 30-foot boat was demolished. The same one where the best big wave surfers in the world wore impact vests and ensured their step-ups were thoroughly waxed.
Well, while everyone else examined their inflatable vests, Lee Wilson had nothing but a pair of trunks, a broken step-up, and his trusty custom 5'8".
"I had a shorty and a 5’8" slab board I designed with my shaper [Chilli Surfboards]. On the way to the airport I picked up two stockies." Lee Wilson recalled about the trip, "When I got there, it was about three times bigger than I expected, and to be honest, I felt pretty insignificant out there."
"Big Wednesday came and I ride a stock 6’2" and ended up wiping out so bad, I have trouble riding step ups, and I sat the rest of the day out and watched. It was terrifying, even from the beach." Lee continued, "Honest. I knew the next day was gonna be solid as well and when I woke up it’s flames. I took a out my 5’8" and got some really fun rides, I dare say I had the trip of my life."
Scroll back to the top and watch two minutes of Lee and his 5'8" all cut to some delightfully quick slow-mo.