June 3 Was Matahi Drollet Day at Teahupo’o

What were you doing on the morning of June 3, 2025?

It was a Tuesday when Matahi Drollet packed his gear and headed out for another morning surf at Teahupo’o. The resulting footage could have easily been given sensationalist titles like “Best Ever,” “Epic,” “Once in a Lifetime,” or “Wave of the Year,” or other attempts at fishing for clicks. Instead, Matahi simply typed: “Matahi Drollet Teahupoo June 3 2025.”

After all these years, we’re still perplexed at how casually he handles a wave that has tragically ended lives and pushed more than a few dangerously close to the pearly gates. Dare we say it: no goofyfooter takes off steeper or deeper out there.

In order to fully understand what a regular Tuesday is like for him, Stab spoke to Matahi about this particular session.

On a scale of 1–10, how did that day rank as far as paddle days are concerned?
I think it was pretty much as good as it gets for paddling. I’ll give it a 9. Glassy conditions for most of the day, and not too many tow sets. I like it when it’s that size for paddling — sometimes you don’t send it as much when there are some real tow waves during the day. This last swell was just the perfect size for me.

What size boards were you riding?
I was riding a new 6’6″ from Dylan Shapes. My first time riding it, and it went perfect. Made all my drops that day — I think I just found another magic board.

You got so many good waves that session. How long were you out there for?
Thank you. I surfed from 7:30 to 1 p.m. Waves were so good it was hard for me to leave, but when the accident with Tom Lowe happened, I just didn’t feel like surfing in the afternoon anymore. I went to the hospital for the rest of the day, and we were just happy to hear news from the doctor that he could make a 100% recovery, even though it was such a serious drowning.

Straight to 6:11 if you’re in a rush.