Jack Robinson Tames Northwest Australia’s Hideous Beast
In “Twelve-Hour Barrel Bender”
There is a wave, deep in the West Australian desert, whose surreal beauty is eclipsed only by its inherent danger.
Multiple surfers have died there—usually the result of colliding head-first with the reef, falling unconscious, and failing to surface.
Despite several sketchy circumstances, Jack Robinson continues to return each year when the swell is large and west.
“When it’s big that wave is just an animal… It’s wild,” Jack told Wasted Talent. “It’s got all these steps in the faces that you’ve got to navigate when you’re in it. When it’s small it can get pretty playful, but when it’s bigger it just tries to kill you, I swear. I get scared out there, even if it’s not that high.”
In Jack’s most recent venture north, he surfed a total of 12 hours in two days. The provided video details some of the highlight moments, like when Jack got spat out of a triple-up cavern or hurdled a mid-tube mogul.
It’s very fine viewing and we encourage you to watch.
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