Are We Surfing Better For Longer?

Teahupo’o, 2022.

Eight feet of black, glassy death is bending and warping around the End of the Road and the world’s best are locked in a tube shoot out for the ages. Connor O’Leary has drawn the GOAT, Kelly Slater. At almost half his age, Connor holds a clear physical advantage, but it’s not enough to overcome Kelly’s experience and his enviable relationship with this wave. Despite surfing one of the best heats of his career, Connor goes down 16.83 to Kelly’s 17.00.

“The younger person should have the advantage but nah,” says Connor. He adds, “To be able to go toe to toe with him and see him be so comfortable and have that calm aura about him was super inspirational…You could just tell he knew exactly where he needed to be, knew exactly what wave he needed to catch.”

Kelly’s longevity is almost as mind-bending as his record 11 World Titles. Along with a handful of other ageing icons (Mel, Dorian, Twiggy etc), he’s forced a reimagining of what’s possible in surfing as we age. And the whole culture is beginning to shift.