Who Is The Real Hero In This Picture?
Mysto Man’s heroic act of self-sacrifice ensured another got the wave of his life.
When you’re about to cop a twenty-footer on the head, it’s incredibly hard to think about anything other than your next breath. Your sympathetic nervous system puts your body in a state of ‘fight or flight’, triggering physiological and behavioural responses in service of biological self-preservation, the former by confronting a threatening stimulus, the latter by fleeing from it.
Doing something as selfless as pushing your board up the face so the guy on the wave of his life can get a clean exit is a hero-defining act. Our man could’ve just bailed deep and not have gotten sucked over. He didn’t. He hopped off his board and pushed it flat to the shoulder (refer to the slo-mo shot at 1:02) in a noble act of self-immolation.
What a fucken guy.
Also a massive kudos goes to the man in the tube here, obvs. Chance King is a musician and CEO/Artist/Entertainment Director of Dirty Feet Crew. In his Surfline interview Chance explains this session’s significance:
“This was my first real XL session since my debilitating back injury from Teahupo’o last May. I ruptured my discs, could hardly get out of bed, and went through some rigorous physical therapy three times a week for almost six months. Just this month I’ve finally been able to get back in the water. This was my first real day feeling strong, and I was ready for anything.”
Massive props to both men, but in particular hitherto uncredited fella for his quick-thinking and consideration.
The opposite of a Surf Nemesis.
UPDATE: People Are Still Surfing ‘La Jetee’ in Reunion Island
Returning to the best & sharkiest air wave in the world, as seen in Mod…
These Are Your Favorite (Female) Surfers
What the Stab reader survey teaches us about taste.
Fear And Loathing in Mainland Mex
Parker Coffin, Harry Roach, and the Roark crew embark on an authentic Oaxacan (surf) trip.
While Everyone Flocked To Tahiti, Kelly Stayed in Jbay
...And proceeded to rip the hell out of it on a "borrowed" 5-finned Tomo.
Can A GQ Cover Boy Take Out Teahupo’o?
Kauli Vaast is your incredibly handsome Tahiti trials winner.
Watch: Ramble On With Caity Simmers
An action-rich tour behind the scenes of her triumphant first voyage to Oz.
PSA: Surf Filmers Not Welcome In Nicaragua
Cameras and drones are being seized on arrival, Stab spoke with two recent visitors.
Inside The Alternative Surfboard Marketing Machine
Two of the biz's best — Matt Parker and Blake Peters — spill many beans.
The Tragic Parallels Between The Murder Of Ricardo Dos Santos & 8x World Jiu Jitsu Champion Leandro Lo
Two Brazilian sporting icons killed brazenly by off-duty police officers.
The Pick-Up, Vans US Open: In The Belly Of The Beast
Finger flips, shaping with Zion Wright, slurpees, Hawaiian takeovers, and the king of Surfline rewinds.
Albee Layer Discusses His Not-So-Budding Acting Career And The Upcoming Film “Sweet Adventure”
"Matt and Nora were tripping a little harder than I was just because they weren't…
How A Former CT Surfer Gets “Absolute Beginners” Barreled In A Matter Of Months
Luke Stedman elaborates on his Blackball surf programs.