Who Is The Real Hero In This Picture?

When you’re about to cop a twenty-footer on the head, it’s incredibly hard to think about anything other than your next breath. Your sympathetic nervous system puts your body in a state of ‘fight or flight’, triggering physiological and behavioural responses in service of biological self-preservation, the former by confronting a threatening stimulus, the latter by fleeing from it.

Doing something as selfless as pushing your board up the face so the guy on the wave of his life can get a clean exit is a hero-defining act. Our man could’ve just bailed deep and not have gotten sucked over. He didn’t. He hopped off his board and pushed it flat to the shoulder (refer to the slo-mo shot at 1:02) in a noble act of self-immolation. 

What a fucken guy. 

Also a massive kudos goes to the man in the tube here, obvs. Chance King is a musician and CEO/Artist/Entertainment Director of Dirty Feet Crew. In his Surfline interview Chance explains this session’s significance:

“This was my first real XL session since my debilitating back injury from Teahupo’o last May. I ruptured my discs, could hardly get out of bed, and went through some rigorous physical therapy three times a week for almost six months. Just this month I’ve finally been able to get back in the water. This was my first real day feeling strong, and I was ready for anything.”

Massive props to both men, but in particular hitherto uncredited fella for his quick-thinking and consideration. 

The opposite of a Surf Nemesis.