SoCal’s Big (And Small) Wave Surfers Flock To Maxing Swamis Like Moths To A Flame
Enjoy 15 mins of raw carnage
If you live in SoCal, the last two days of “Solid WNW” (according to our friends at Surfline) have provided the kinda session your neighbor will reference as the ‘day of days’ for the next year or so. Here are the two reasons for this benchmark:
1. While our more fortunate brethren living on a rock 2,520 miles away are on constant wave-heaters, California’s been on the sidelines — salivating in front of our living room TVs with cold turkeys and even colder 2-3ft surf. The superlative words that do well on YouTube, like “XXL, EL Niño, JOB, and Code Red,” can all be hotly contested. But there’s no denying this is CA’s first taste of real swell this winter.
2. Everyone and their third cousins are out. ‘Tis the season we surf to escape family feuds, third servings of crusty pie, and, of course, excessive ‘bonding time.” Even if we lack the appropriate fiberglass, getting rolled by a 10-foot set presents more solace than listening to our darling niece’s 11th rehearsal of Jingle Hells. And good news! All of SoCal has located the reef that’s sort of holding. So whoever accidentally rolls into a slopey 8-foot face becomes an instant hero, with the tale of their heroics likely to grow at an exponential rate for the next six months.
Above surfing’s very own Gifted Hater, Jimmy Wilson, gets amongst the spirit at Swamis. Enjoy 15 minutes of raw audio and maxing Cardiff.
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