#stabsingles: When Nic Von Rupp’s Insatiable Barrel Appetite Goes Wrong

Forget the double-shot, here’s something to get the heart thumping. It’s Portuguese big wave hunter Nic Von Rupp, attempting in vain to stick a bomb from out of position. The fall itself is enough to sicken the stomach but turns out that’s only half the problem with botching the first wave of the set…

“It’s a gnarly outer reef, deep water into a shallow shelf, straight into deep water again..” Recounts Nic. “It’s one of those waves that take you deep forever. A bunch of the boys have almost had two-wave hold downs out there, and this day was my turn.”

“It was pretty solid this day, yet slow, so when the big sets came we were kinda out of position, and I pulled back on a few (laughs). I guess I was pissed for being such a pussy and just wanted a piece of those thick ones. That bomb set came and I paddled for it. I knew it was a gnarly one, borderline unmakeable, but it bottomed out sooner than I thought. I went down hard straight on to my face and it was so powerful, it took me super deep for ages.”

“I was stuck in a spinning turbulence that wasn’t allowing me up so I pulled my vest. As my vest was dragging me up I heard that next one pounding not too far away. As I came up, I got one breath and there I was, eating shit again. Got dragged almost to the rocks and then straight out there again.”

“Nothing better than a good old wipeout, makes you feel alive.”