The Best Surfer from the World’s Most Famous Beach

Pama Davies must be one of the most patient men in Australia. He surfs Bondi Beach more than anyone, he’s probably surfing out there right now. It takes a certain kind of masochist to inflict this kind suffering on one’s self. The quality of the waves is chronically average. The crowd on the other hand, is world class. Watching Pama surf his home break, it’s remarkable how calm he is in a lineup that can test the temperament of the calmest of souls. He still gets all the best waves, but doesn’t seem to hassle anyone. He’s just bobbing, chatting, cruising, and then you look again and he’s punting over a French backpacker in goggles and a swimming cap. “I think you’re born into it,” says Pama of his expert crowd and temper control skills. “People from other areas of Australia look at Bondi and think that there’s a thousand guys out, but when you live here it’s just normal. You have a bit of priority over a lot of them because you’re local, but, there’s a whole lot of people who move here who are epic and just join in with whatever’s going on.”

Pama’s currently unsponsored, and when asked about his prospects, he’s characteristically modest. “Surfing’s so weird,” he says. “If you play rugby, you’ve just got to be really good at rugby. But in surfing, you’ve just got to put everything together. Being a pro would be sick. But you’ve got to find your own way into it I guess.” Whether calculated or not, being a tanned, handsome, sandy-haired aerialist from the most recognised beach in the word, who’s also developing a presence in heavy waves (Hello Ours), isn’t a bad start. Keep an eye out for the boy from Bondi.