Shane Dorian’s Road To Big Wave Prominence (The Story Of)
“At fifteen I moved to the North Shore by myself.”
Nobody starts out a big wave surfer. This is the story of Doz, and how he packed his bags and left the small lumps of Kona, flew to the North Shore, picked up eight freshies from JC and took on Waimea Bay for the first time. Shane’s been penning his name into the history books as one of the all-time greats for the past two decades. The luminescent are bred from risk, reward and the boldest of actions.
This is Part II of “The Aloha Project” by Ryan Moss.
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