Greg Long on Fear
The always articulate Mr Long, provides some insight into the psychology of big wave surfing. On pushing the line, stepping over, fear and consequences. Much more being said than surf-specifics here, it’s a lesson on flowering that bud of life.
The always articulate Mr Long, provides some insight into the psychology of big wave surfing. On pushing the line, stepping over, fear and consequences. Much more being said than surf-specifics here, it’s a lesson on flowering that bud of life.
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