The West Coast Has Been Wonderful All Week (SF to Baja)
Riots on land, bliss at sea.
Holy shit. It’s been a weird one for the US. On November 8th, The Donald became the official president-elect. Cue riots in Portland, protests in Los Angeles (lauded by the mayor), San Francisco, New York and essentially every major city throughout the US (they’ve been going three days strong). #NotMyPresident’s painted on cardboard signs, assisted by chanting, marching, drinking and a bunch of nonsensical articles online about moving to Canada, Portugal, Australia; anywhere.
Oh, the millennials, the educated urban caucus have raised their arms. And those arms are uselessly pulsating like something will be done, like something will change. Too late–time to move on, time to grab life by the…ahh, fuck.
Just as the EU can’t go back on Brexit, nothing will change that fact that for the States, a man who’s catch phrase that was once “You’re fired,” a man who had hordes chanting “Build that Wall” – one which he claims will cost 12 billion (The Washington post estimates it in the 25 billion range), come January 20th will be Commander in Chief. Yup, that’s right, Prez Donnie Trump (that’s gonna take some getting used to). Big business is laughing, and for some reason kids are burning their New Balance sneakers (the first major sportswear label backed by Donnie T) in protest; hell what’s a riot without fire and the scent of burnt rubber? But, America runs on turmoil, on warranted stirring of the melting pot – 11 million of which Trump has threatened to deport – which seems implausible.
But, there was a silver lining–at least for west coast surfers. During the final week of much mudslinging about “liars” and “corruption”, from San Francisco to Mexico, two solid Northwest swells blasted the region with warm weather, Santa Ana offshore winds and everyone got their fair share of barrels. The escapism into beautiful weather, swell and conditions couldn’t have come at a better time.
Photography
Matt Obrien
Ocean Beach in San Francisco is a shifty mistress. Wherever you’re sitting always seems to be the wrong place. Up and down the beach, on good days almond tunnels break everywhere you’re not and the current works your arms limp. But if you can find that right sandbar and get a couple good ones, that 30-minute paddle out becomes all worthwhile.
Andrew Jacobson displays the reward of reverse immigration.
Photography
Matt Catalano
Lensman Matt Catalano of New Jersey has traversed the West Coast over the last week. From San Francisco to Mavs, to Northern Baja. This shot above and the following few are the results of his fodder. We just hope he put the lens down and snagged a few, as we all know surf photography, while rewarding, ain’t the most lucrative business.
Opening day at Mavericks.
Photography
Matt Calalano
An unknown soldier at a break that if you know it (and if you live in California you probably do) don’t tell everyone. I’m not trying to blow out my weekend.
Photography
Matt Catalano
One more from Mex with Jensen Young Sik.
Photography
Matt Catalano
Contrary to popular belief, this only happens in SF a few times a year.
Photography
Matt Obrien
Yves Bright in Los Angeles.
Photography
Steven Lippman
It’s hard to be a surfer in Los Angeles. Forget the hordes of Wavestorms, and the fact that you fear for your safety in the consistent waist-high slop on account of unruly SUPs…actually remember that: LA’s good for a party, but most the time the ocean’s only use is to wash-off last night’s remorse…and very occasionally it does something like this.
Conner Coffin and yesterday’s leftovers in Ventura.
Photography
Chris Papaleo
North of Mexican border, San Diego opened her mouth wide.
Photography
Eric Henderson
“I checked every spot along the coast of San Diego on Thursday,” says photog Eric Henderson. “Looking for perfection. At first, the tide was too high, and the swell was non-existent for the most part. Luckily, it filled in throughout the day. As the tide began to drain, the winds blew harder offshore. I stayed away from the crowds at Blacks to find myself a perfect reef that was easily double overhead, with barely three heads out. Winter swells, with tropical weather. It doesn’t get much better than that!”
So far winter’s looking pretty good up North. Here’s Mavs a few days back as ridden by New York’s Will Skudin.
Photography
Daryn Goodwin
“I always second guess where to shoot,” says photographer, Daryn Goodwin. “Making the eight-hour drive from San Diego to chance Mavericks when I knew it was firing at home was a tough call. Once our boat got close and we saw that conditions were perfect, I knew I guessed right this time. Guys were absolutely charging and it was an epic day.”
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