The largest swell in 18 years is hitting Hawaii

Video by Clark Little

It’s the winter of the next big thing. The biggest days ever paddled at Jaws, the best Mavericks in years, and the North Shore is absolutely maxed out right now. Nobody’s surfing because it takes a proper psychopath to brave the seas at the moment. One guy tried his luck at the Bay and was shut down, he had no chance.

According to our pals at Magic Seaweed this is easily the largest swell of the winter, and has the potential to be a record setter. The offshore bouys have hit 30-foot exceeding the biggest swell of 1998’s El Niño by almost three feet. The size is due to a strong North-South fetch being driven towards the island that’s creating far more local swell than usual. Because of this, North winds have accompanied the swell with a broad mix of periods and it’s proving to be too much for the breaks to handle. It’s currently out of control and unridable.

Reports are starting to come in from the Westside, where Brian Keaulana (legendary North Shore Lifeguard and surfer) is calling it 25-foot. Currently nobody’s attempted to paddle out. However, John John Florence is posted up watching it, but the wind’s have turned onshore for the moment.

This brings us to Thursday, the swell behind the one currently wreaking havoc on the North Shore is expected to shape up more than the chaos of today’s. The long period energy will be harnessed and controlled with a size that has potential to be the biggest swell ever surfed, and tow teams are already preparing at Jaws.

According to Magic Seaweed, this swell looks to be more legit than the one the Eddie was called on and off for a few weeks back. It will be the last swell in the Eddie window, which also just happens to coincide with recent tragic passing of the late, great Brock Little. It seems fitting, like the universe is sending it’s own personal tribute to the man.

The primary concern is that the winds could become problematic for the Eddie to run. Currently the wind models are disagreeing a bit, so stay tuned. But according to sources close to the event, it’s looking more and more likely they’ll give it the green light. But even if the contest that never runs doesn’t go (which after last times’ over hype, the call is tentative), we will surely be seeing another bout of mind bending surfing in death defying conditions.