Is There Such A Thing As The Wrong Board?
Existential questions answered in this week’s edition of the Stab Fwd.
Earlier this week, I rode the wrong board at the wrong wave at the wrong time of day.
It was bigger than forecast — something that could have been accounted for had I taken 30 seconds to check the cams. I had not, and for no particular reason. So I ended up with too small a board at a deep-ish water wave, paddling out just as the wind clocked sideshore.
The immediate result was a set on the head. I duckdove the first wave and bear-hugged my board because, of course, I had only brought an old, stretched-out leash. It was quite the ride underwater, feeling the buoyancy of a 6’8” combat the spiraling columns of a cold, angry Atlantic. I questioned my decision-making, laughing at myself for getting things so wrong — how have I not learned by now?
The rest of the set was mellow. I eventually made it to the channel and paddled out for the second time, feet still eager to say hello to the wax. That’s when the great surf began.
The wind spooked the crowd, freeing up waves and creating space in the lineup. You could sit where you damn well pleased. I damn well pleased to sit a little inside, where I could enjoy the late drops and hard-to-control speed that come with too small on a board on too big a wave.
In other words, the poor decisions I made positively impacted my session.
This is a theme in surfing, one most often explored via board choice. Riding what would widely be considered an unideal board for the conditions, as I experienced, can grant you access to new sensations and change the way you think.
It goes beyond boards, though.
Taking off in the wrong spot. Misplacing a maneuver. Surfing a crowded wave at an off-tide. Dealing with backwash in general. All of these problems occasionally set you up for great things. It’s a consequence of the hyper-spontaneous nature of surfing — you have no choice but to adapt, and often no time to think about how to do so.
In most situations, there are right and wrong answers. Surfing teaches you that the wrong ones can be more fun.
We asked a big question. Fifty of our Premium members gave us thoughtful answers. This story takes you through fifteen of those answers, and features a handful of insights gathered from the collective. You’ll likely be surprised by which brand won the most selections for their films.
Well, well, well. It sounds like a seat just opened up in Premium Economy. For real though, this is massive news — and it makes you think about how the rest of the season will pan out. With all the travel challenges and new format, 2021 might just be the year of the wildcard. Someone get Sean Holmes on the line.
Barrels? Yes. Airs? Yes. Turns? Yes. College football? Also yes. Last year, Ian Crane went from a surfer you should watch to a surfer you need to watch. And now, he’s even making surf movies. The highlight of this fifteen minute doozie, for me, was the Caroline Marks x OutKast pairing the world never knew it needed. She is absurdly good at riding waves.
Don’t be a Craig denier. Instead, enjoy this collection of images and words from Ando’s friend and supremely talented photographer, John Respondek. The two have a way of simply making surfing look wonderful.
I used to feel certain that I had seen all the Andy Irons footage there is to see. For two weeks straight, this series has been proving me wrong. A trove of unearthed clips paired with the stories that shaped modern surfing? Yes, please.
Speaking of Andy…
Last week, I asked you who you want to surf like. I appreciated every response, but I’d like to highlight Dylan’s for its simplistic honesty.
I want to surf like Dane Reynolds if he had a 5 month dry spell of no surf and couldn’t do airs anymore… that would bring me satisfaction.
One last thing:
Our world would function more seamlessly if we had constructed a society in which, no matter where you are, you could pay some kid $5 to scrape the wax off your board.
Stab Podcast: An Event We Passionately Debated For The Past 12 Months
Feedback from the WSL Finals, slaps of justice, and a Russian SUP parade.
Joyride Board Test: The LSD Hammer
Amateur surfer rides Noa Deane's prized step-up at Kirra and The Box.
Red Bull No Contest, Mexico: A Surfer’s Guide To Scoring Like A Local In Southern Mexico
Inside Barra de la Cruz culture with Mateus Herdy and Rio Waida.
Fourteen World Titles Worth Of Wisdom, Unpacked
What we learned from listening closely to Mick and Kelly during the WSL Finals.
Watch: Jack Robinson Wastes No Parts Of The Buffalo
Five minutes from Western Australia's finest.
The Connection Between Growing Up Poor And Going On To Win World Titles
“The wealthier a town gets, the fewer really good surfers you’ll find in the water.”
WSL Finals Review: “I Don’t Condone (Most) Crimes, But A Helicopter And A Giant Magnet Would Make For One Incredible Heist”
Lowers was an absolute shit-show yesterday. A report from the ground.
Filipe Toledo May Or May Not Be The Ultimate Surfer
Episode 7 is a wrap, find out who's advancing to tomorrow's finale.
10 Questions With S.U.R.F. Winner Jake ‘Money Making Machine’ Vincent
How did Vinny blow his 10 G’s?
Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina Are Your 2021 World Champions Of Surfing
As it should be.
A King Amongst Medinas: Inside Gabriel’s World Title Winning 2021
How a former South Sydney demolition man helped mastermind Gabriel Medina's Title campaign.
2021 WSL Finals: Live Coverage And Updates
Leave the best comment, win a free surfboard.
The Best WSL Event You Never Heard Of
No electricity. No running water. No wifi and no pins dropped. The Namakwa Challenge was…
This Is What Happens When You Steal Surfboards In Portugal
"The best type of punishment for them is not by the law."
Where Are Wavepools Taking Us?
Spunk-riddled cesspools or gladiatorial entertainment venues that benefit surf culture?
Everything You Never Knew You Wanted To Know About Surfing In The Great Lakes
A Michigan-born surfer returns home and breaks it down.