John Florence, Backdoor thriller, Hawaii
This morning was the final day of the the Backdoor Shootout’s waiting period. A swell shuffled in this morning and the strip was showing some moments of brilliance, but eventually it was decided that the swell, six to eight feet, was a little too shifty. Turned out to be a good call ’cause, at 9.30, […]
This morning was the final day of the the Backdoor Shootout’s waiting period. A swell shuffled in this morning and the strip was showing some moments of brilliance, but eventually it was decided that the swell, six to eight feet, was a little too shifty. Turned out to be a good call ’cause, at 9.30, the winds turned it off.
“The surf was real shifty, with swells from the north and west,” says photog Spencer Suitt, who was on the beach. “One A-frame washed through, broke 10 boards and six leashes. That’s an expensive wave.”
It is indeed. And, here’s another expensive wave. Standing tall in his domain, his kingdom, one of surfing’s highest paid men, John Florence, always with grace, always entertaining. Doesn’t it amaze?
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