Bruce Irons (with Chris Bryan shooting), Teahupoo, Tahiti

“Oh my god, you don’t know how exhilarating it is not be to on the North Shore right now,” says Bruce Irons. “When I think about no waves and all those people, I have social anxiety. I don’t miss it.”

Today, Bruce shared three-to-five foot Teahupoo with a coupla local bodyboarders. He spent most of the session sitting 15-to-20 metres deeper than the rest of the pack, and dealt with chandeliers and shockies on a 5’10” four-fin, shaped by Jason Stevenson. How’s it work for him? “I didn’t turn but it’s fast,” he says. “Real fast.”

Since Bruce was last here for the madness of the Billabong Pro and its 20 foot tow swell, along with a memorial session for his brother, Andy, he’s had one surf on Kauai. Rather than taking on the north shore of Oahu with the rest of the pro surfing world, he opted for uncrowded waves in out-of-season French Polynesia.

“I love Tahiti. I’ve always loved Tahiti. I’ve never been in November. There’s no one here and I really wish I could live here.”

Bruce is on-location for a Stab concept shoot. Two decent swells are backing up and from here, he’ll bolt back to his nephew Axel’s first birthday on Kauai. “A kid’s first birthday is a big deal in Hawaii. There’s a luau and it’s a big celebration,” says Bruce. From here, he’ll bolt to the North Shore where he’ll compete in the Billabong Pipeline Masters. “I’ll be there at the Pipe contest, shoulder-to-shoulder, neck-to-neck and really rubbing elbows with the top 43. Or 42? How is it? Top 28? What is it now? 28? 23? 26? Like I said, right now I’m not giving two shits for it. I’m down here in Tahiti and loving life to the fullest.” – Sam McIntosh.